i thought about this today. the rigs that haul their races look pretty sweet. i wonder what it would be like if they raced one of those things.
i'd like to see how the pit crew would deal with something like that. when changing tires, would they push it along side they do now, or would they have to forklift them?
what do you think of such thing?
the only real downside would that it might be dangerous to something like this, is that those safer barrier walls may not be able to stop something that big going too fast if it should happen to crash.Do you think it would be fun if Nascar raced semi's?
Jay mentioned GATR, but there was a more recent re-invention of the racing semi. It was called STRANA, or Super Truck Racers Association of North America. The bad thing about it was that it was going to be road course racing, and would race in conjunction with the ALMS (American LeMans Series). Unfortunately, they never really got it off the ground. They did have some ';big names'; run the trucks in some exhibition races, such as Brian Simo, Boris Said, Ron Fellows, and a few others.....all road course ';ringers.'; I really wish that they had gotten the series going, as I was going to move up from off-road to the Super Trucks. STRANA folded in 2002. I think their website is still active, but hasn't been updated in like 6 years. If you do a google search for STRANA, you might be able to access it.Do you think it would be fun if Nascar raced semi's?
It would be too spendy and not that exciting of racing. They DO have tractor races somewhere though, I've seen a clip of it. Taking old buses and racing them is kind of cool, especially when they do it on one of those figure 8 tracks.
I'd admit that would be fun to watch. I dont think the teams would let the rig's that carry the cars to the tracks race. But having a more affordable version race would be cool. But like you said I think safety would be a big concern, to fans and the drivers.
I remember back in the 70s, maybe early 80s there used to be GATR (Great American Truck Racing) This used to be awesome to watch. I don't remember how or if they did pit stops. Yes, I wish they would bring real truck racing back! I would be into it. Watching the trucks race on road courses in Europe is pretty wild.
It would be interesting and fun to watch, but I don't think Nascar should start funning semi's.
I remember watching some of those events on TV back in the Past and Bert Reynolds driving on in Smokey the Bandit. They wouldnt fit to well on the Short tracks though!!!!!
I remember one !!!
Held here in Atlanta, back in the mid 80's !!!! Didn't go personally... but they've had it before.
Interesting concept. It would be kool to watch, but the ';big one'; would really be a BIG one. Like Steevo said, I have seen tractor races before, but not lately.
Go Jr.%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
no
especially if they were pulling their trailers.
I went to one at Atlanta one time. When they would wreck I thought they were going to tear down the walls. It was fun to watch. Not many trucks started. I think it was around 10 or 15. Also there was alot of blown tires. I think there is a tour in Europe that races them now. You could probably find it on line somewhere. Maybe on some video web site. hint,hint.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
How much will this cost ballpark?
Recnetly ive noticed that my car needs new brakes. When I brake going over 50mph my car starts to shake. Is that my rotors? If so how much would new brakes rotars, oil change, tire rotation and alighnment cost me ballpark??How much will this cost ballpark?
What you are describing is called variations from parallel or in simple terms a warped rotor. If the rotor has sufficient material left, it can be resurfaced and reused. This is part of a normal brake service. Typical charge for this service is around $125.00 for both fronts or both rear brakes. If they require replacing, typical cost is about $70.00 per rotor. Oil change $30.00, Tire rotation is usually complimentary with getting the brakes done. Most shops charge about $69.00 for a alignment. The shaking of the steering wheel will stop after the brakes are serviced. Good LuckHow much will this cost ballpark?
You need to tell people what kind of car your drive, silly.
could also be a ball joint. Is the shake in the seat, or the steering wheel?
Sounds likea ball joint or something in the suspension. you will also get a shake at low speeds if it was a warped rotor. I would take it to get aligned first your breaks may be fine, sears won't charge you for the alignment if it can't be done which means you can get the inspection of the steering for free, then decide what to do from there.
Best of luck.
could be bad calipers and bad rotors/gets a little pricey if its complete rebuild/why alignment are tires wearing funny??do all the brakes/rotate should be included(wheels are off) and the oil service/dont know where you live but i figure whole thing 800
it will be better to take it to a mechanic..... they will take a look at your car then tell you how much it will be. im pretty sure it wont be that expensive.
You should be able to get all four breaks fixed for $500 to $800 depending on what you need...oil change and alighnment $75 more. I would also recommend that you get ceramic breaks they are just better breaks, will last longer stop better, and won't leave as much dust on your rims and should only cost about $20 more than standard breaks.
What you are describing is called variations from parallel or in simple terms a warped rotor. If the rotor has sufficient material left, it can be resurfaced and reused. This is part of a normal brake service. Typical charge for this service is around $125.00 for both fronts or both rear brakes. If they require replacing, typical cost is about $70.00 per rotor. Oil change $30.00, Tire rotation is usually complimentary with getting the brakes done. Most shops charge about $69.00 for a alignment. The shaking of the steering wheel will stop after the brakes are serviced. Good LuckHow much will this cost ballpark?
You need to tell people what kind of car your drive, silly.
could also be a ball joint. Is the shake in the seat, or the steering wheel?
Sounds likea ball joint or something in the suspension. you will also get a shake at low speeds if it was a warped rotor. I would take it to get aligned first your breaks may be fine, sears won't charge you for the alignment if it can't be done which means you can get the inspection of the steering for free, then decide what to do from there.
Best of luck.
could be bad calipers and bad rotors/gets a little pricey if its complete rebuild/why alignment are tires wearing funny??do all the brakes/rotate should be included(wheels are off) and the oil service/dont know where you live but i figure whole thing 800
it will be better to take it to a mechanic..... they will take a look at your car then tell you how much it will be. im pretty sure it wont be that expensive.
You should be able to get all four breaks fixed for $500 to $800 depending on what you need...oil change and alighnment $75 more. I would also recommend that you get ceramic breaks they are just better breaks, will last longer stop better, and won't leave as much dust on your rims and should only cost about $20 more than standard breaks.
How much does it usually cost to Maintain an BMW? How many miles can you usually put on a BMW? MPG??
I am just interested in a 2001 BMW, and my family knows nothing about the car. So they are scared to buy it. I just want to know how much it usually cost to rotate tires, change oil, how many miles to the gallon they get, if they are good cars, and how many miles can you usually put on the car. Thanks!How much does it usually cost to Maintain an BMW? How many miles can you usually put on a BMW? MPG??
The BMW,s six cylinder in line,gives your better performance and mileage.
I have 520i manual.done 176,000 miles still the engine sounds smooth as new.I can clock upto 400,000-500,000 easily,without major job on the engine.
Many factors contribute to life span,regular service,prompt worn out parts change,proper handling of the car,proper inflated tyres ,proper recommended fluids used, etc.
At a steady speed of 70/2650RPM on 5th gear.on highways.I get 36-38MPG
.
in town I get 28-30MPG.In traffic jams gets 25MPG.
SUGGEST U GET A QUALIFIED MECHANIC TO TEST THE AND GIVE YOU HIS OPINION.
bmw,s are wonderful machines on the road. I can assure you that.
Daringly try one BMW and you not regret at all.But choose the good and accident free one.
Wishing you luck to be BMW owner soon.How much does it usually cost to Maintain an BMW? How many miles can you usually put on a BMW? MPG??
To put it simply, the price to operate and maintain a BMW goes up with the higher number the series you have. 3 series cars will generally be the cheapest to maintain, repair and will use the least amount of fuel. The 5, X5 costs more and the 7 series will cost the most. The ///M line of BMW's are specialty models and I would not recommend buying one if MPG and maintenance is your primary concern.
In real-world conditions anticipate the following for fuel economy. If you are buying a 7 series, expect 14-17 MPG city and 22-26 MPG Highway. A 5 or X5 will depend on the engine choice. For the V8, you will average the same 14-17 and 22-26 as the 7 series. If its a 6 Cylinder, MPG's will improve to 17-21 MPG city and 24-27 MPG highway. The 3 series cars will yield even better MPG with 18-23 City and 25-29 MPG highway.
Tires on all BMW's are mid-priced unless it is a ';Sport'; line. Those tires are often low-profile and will cost considerably more. Oil changes are full-synthetic on all BMW's since the late 90's. I strongly advise against using the dealership for this service as they will approach $100 for a simple oil change. Instead, find a competent mechanic or do-it-yourselfer friend as oil changes on BMW's is an extremely easy task.
As far as long-term reliability, expect considerably more maintenance and repairs after your BMW hits 100,000 miles. BMW's paint and body work is one of the worlds finest. With normal washings and waxing, a BMW will experience very minimal rusting, if at all.
If properly maintained, a BMW will give you years of excellent service!
if you are unsure whether you can afford to run a bmw then do not buy it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!鈥?i have a 540 on motorway runs sticking to 70mph 34.4 mpg in town 20 - 23 mpg engine service around 拢300 good cars until you have to put them right just like any other car my car has now done 145000 miles no problems ive seen them with 500000 mile plus
The BMW,s six cylinder in line,gives your better performance and mileage.
I have 520i manual.done 176,000 miles still the engine sounds smooth as new.I can clock upto 400,000-500,000 easily,without major job on the engine.
Many factors contribute to life span,regular service,prompt worn out parts change,proper handling of the car,proper inflated tyres ,proper recommended fluids used, etc.
At a steady speed of 70/2650RPM on 5th gear.on highways.I get 36-38MPG
.
in town I get 28-30MPG.In traffic jams gets 25MPG.
SUGGEST U GET A QUALIFIED MECHANIC TO TEST THE AND GIVE YOU HIS OPINION.
bmw,s are wonderful machines on the road. I can assure you that.
Daringly try one BMW and you not regret at all.But choose the good and accident free one.
Wishing you luck to be BMW owner soon.How much does it usually cost to Maintain an BMW? How many miles can you usually put on a BMW? MPG??
To put it simply, the price to operate and maintain a BMW goes up with the higher number the series you have. 3 series cars will generally be the cheapest to maintain, repair and will use the least amount of fuel. The 5, X5 costs more and the 7 series will cost the most. The ///M line of BMW's are specialty models and I would not recommend buying one if MPG and maintenance is your primary concern.
In real-world conditions anticipate the following for fuel economy. If you are buying a 7 series, expect 14-17 MPG city and 22-26 MPG Highway. A 5 or X5 will depend on the engine choice. For the V8, you will average the same 14-17 and 22-26 as the 7 series. If its a 6 Cylinder, MPG's will improve to 17-21 MPG city and 24-27 MPG highway. The 3 series cars will yield even better MPG with 18-23 City and 25-29 MPG highway.
Tires on all BMW's are mid-priced unless it is a ';Sport'; line. Those tires are often low-profile and will cost considerably more. Oil changes are full-synthetic on all BMW's since the late 90's. I strongly advise against using the dealership for this service as they will approach $100 for a simple oil change. Instead, find a competent mechanic or do-it-yourselfer friend as oil changes on BMW's is an extremely easy task.
As far as long-term reliability, expect considerably more maintenance and repairs after your BMW hits 100,000 miles. BMW's paint and body work is one of the worlds finest. With normal washings and waxing, a BMW will experience very minimal rusting, if at all.
If properly maintained, a BMW will give you years of excellent service!
if you are unsure whether you can afford to run a bmw then do not buy it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!鈥?i have a 540 on motorway runs sticking to 70mph 34.4 mpg in town 20 - 23 mpg engine service around 拢300 good cars until you have to put them right just like any other car my car has now done 145000 miles no problems ive seen them with 500000 mile plus
Help me change a tire?
i know how to do the whole thing. i just never used a jack like this. instead of having a point of contact to meet with the notch on the underside of my car this jack has a much broader, flatter end. it should go against another flat surface but i don't know where. i'm not a fan of cars so don't give me a list of car parts. please give me an idea of what part of the car is best for holding its entire weight.
the rest of the tire change is under control.Help me change a tire?
You can place it under the frame near the tire, or under a rear shock if it's the rear tire. The frame is just in from the edge of your car. Runs pretty much from front tire to rear tire.Help me change a tire?
CHECK THE MANUAL.
you need to put it on the axle
or the frame
What kind of car do you have? Is it a car, an SUV, a truck? Is the piece a flat plateau like part? If so, it may need to be placed under the lift points. There is usually one lift point at the front and one at the back of the car. Check in your owner's manual and you can also call the maker (Chevy, Mazda, Honda, etc) of your car for help or to buy a different jack.
check the owners manual...it goes on a flange underneath the drivers or passenger side door. they may also be instructions in the well with the spare tire. make sure you put it on properly...so that it does not slip!
question is not complete Is it back wheel or front wheel. usually there is a space for keeping jack for any vehicle.So keep the jack near to tyre which was to repair below the axle
If you're a woman, there should be a man near by who would want to help you, or anyway show you.
While the car is still flat on the ground, loosen the bolts with your feet by putting the crow bar on the bolts and loosening it with your body weight via the feet. Then use the jack to lift the car, take the bolts off, then take off the tire, then put on the new tire, screw on the new bolts, then lower the vehicle and tighten the bolts with your feet.
Then you should be awight!!
You have the jack upsidedown, The flat part goes on the ground.
Most likely there will be a frame rail running along the side of the car beneath the doors, usually about eight to ten inches from the bottom of the doors. You can place the jack under this rail and then jack it up slowly and watch for any distortion of the rail. If it looks strong enough, proceed. The alternative is to place the jack under the axle and jack that up.
These cheeky bastards here think that they can win your ten points by stating the obvious. I happen to know that the flat part of the jack goes on the inside concave part of your armpit. Whilst jacking your pit must be perpendicular to the ground at all times, or your Kneuter valve may explode, causing your Johnson rods to hang far below the federal standard. Try to keep your chin up, and hopefully by now some unsuspecting, halfway good looking man has come along and taken control of the situation. As for your answer about yams, I would argue the availability of Yams on the market is quite strong. Although the common Beauregard sweet potato has felched it's way into the market mysteriously mis-labeled as a yam, any true yam enthusiast would laugh in the eyes of such an impostor. Ha, I say.
the rest of the tire change is under control.Help me change a tire?
You can place it under the frame near the tire, or under a rear shock if it's the rear tire. The frame is just in from the edge of your car. Runs pretty much from front tire to rear tire.Help me change a tire?
CHECK THE MANUAL.
you need to put it on the axle
or the frame
What kind of car do you have? Is it a car, an SUV, a truck? Is the piece a flat plateau like part? If so, it may need to be placed under the lift points. There is usually one lift point at the front and one at the back of the car. Check in your owner's manual and you can also call the maker (Chevy, Mazda, Honda, etc) of your car for help or to buy a different jack.
check the owners manual...it goes on a flange underneath the drivers or passenger side door. they may also be instructions in the well with the spare tire. make sure you put it on properly...so that it does not slip!
question is not complete Is it back wheel or front wheel. usually there is a space for keeping jack for any vehicle.So keep the jack near to tyre which was to repair below the axle
If you're a woman, there should be a man near by who would want to help you, or anyway show you.
While the car is still flat on the ground, loosen the bolts with your feet by putting the crow bar on the bolts and loosening it with your body weight via the feet. Then use the jack to lift the car, take the bolts off, then take off the tire, then put on the new tire, screw on the new bolts, then lower the vehicle and tighten the bolts with your feet.
Then you should be awight!!
You have the jack upsidedown, The flat part goes on the ground.
Most likely there will be a frame rail running along the side of the car beneath the doors, usually about eight to ten inches from the bottom of the doors. You can place the jack under this rail and then jack it up slowly and watch for any distortion of the rail. If it looks strong enough, proceed. The alternative is to place the jack under the axle and jack that up.
These cheeky bastards here think that they can win your ten points by stating the obvious. I happen to know that the flat part of the jack goes on the inside concave part of your armpit. Whilst jacking your pit must be perpendicular to the ground at all times, or your Kneuter valve may explode, causing your Johnson rods to hang far below the federal standard. Try to keep your chin up, and hopefully by now some unsuspecting, halfway good looking man has come along and taken control of the situation. As for your answer about yams, I would argue the availability of Yams on the market is quite strong. Although the common Beauregard sweet potato has felched it's way into the market mysteriously mis-labeled as a yam, any true yam enthusiast would laugh in the eyes of such an impostor. Ha, I say.
New tires?
I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon with about 85,000 miles on it; tires have never been changed. Winter's coming up (I moved to Denver 2 years ago from LA...winters are bad here) and I admit I'm not knowligable when it comes to cars, but I just did the penny check on them. The 2 back tires are fine, but the front tires are bald... so when I get my tires changed, do I just change the front two or all four? Also, how long does the process take, and about how much can I expect to pay?New tires?
OK, how about a real answer for a change?
I live in Minnesota, so I understand your climate needs and I work in the tire industry so unlike the other people who have responded so far, I have some idea what I'm talking about.
I find it shocking that you would still be riding on the original hoops after 80k miles and 7 years. When new these cars came equipped with either Bridgestone Potenza RE92 tires (15-inch) or Michelin MXV4+ (16-inch), neither of which has a reputation for lasting much longer than 40k miles and the Bridgestone's are horrendous in snow even when new. If you still had those you would have got rid of them at the first snowflake. As I alluded to, your 2000 Avalon will have one of two tire sizes fitted: P205/65R15 92H or P205/60R16 91H. I'm not sure which size is fitted to your particular vehicle so I'll make suggestions for both. I have personal experience with all of the tires I will talk about in heat, rain and snow and ice conditions either in the real world, on the test track, or both.
Ignore the guy who said you need ';all-terrain'; tires. That is too ridiculous for a response.
Ignore rick and his advice about ';traction ratings'; too. The UTQG ratings that are given to all passenger tires in the U.S. are about as useful as t-ts on a bull. They don't tell you anything about how a tire is going to perform in the real world.
In either P205/65R15 92H or P205/60R16 91H I can recommend the BF Goodrich Traction T/A H as a competent al-season performer at an attractive price point. 60k mileage warranty on that one.
A better but more expensive choice would be the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity which is really a marvel of tire engineering. Fantastic in every way. 70k mileage warranty to boot
Michelin's Primacy MXV4 is the replacement for the MXV4+ that has been a popular Original Equipment fit tire for many years. The Primacy promises longer wear and better traction and probably has the lowest rolling resistance of the bunch (for good gas mileage). I have not driven this tire in snow yet. It has only been out for a few months so I just have not had a chance, but they should be decent enough. for the money though if it were my own car I would chose the Bridgestone's.
The Goodyear Assurance Tripletread (make sure it is the Tripletread, not the Comfortread) gets great reviews for rain and snow traction and has a very long 80k mileage warranty to boot but I think there are some supply issues with these right now. If you can find them this would be my #2 choice behind the Bridgestones. Someone else mentioned the Goodyear Eagle ResponsEdge. I would not recommend this tire to someone living in Denver. That tire is a ';hihg-performance'; tire for people who like to play Mario Andretti around the cloverleafs. You don't strike me as the type. The Tripletreads will be orders-of-magnitude better for the way you use your car.
If it were me and I lived in Denver I would actually invest in 2 sets of wheels and tires - one for summer and one for winter, the latter fitted with tires dedicated specifically for winter use such as the Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60. I live in Minnesota and this is what I do on my personal vehicle. A dedicated winter tire like that is just so much better in very cold temperatures, snow and ice than so-called ';all-season'; tires that you can not even compare them. Remember, if you read the fine print ';all-season'; tires are only useful in ';light snow';. Also all-season tires tread rubber loses elasticity (traction) at temperatures below 45-deg F so that even on a cold day without any snow or ice a winter tire will work better than an all-season tire.
The Tirerack.com is a great place to get wheels and winter tires because they are extremely price competitive and will mount and balance the tires at no charge when you buy the wheels at the same time. You can buy just tires from them too and while their tire pricing is very cheap, once you add shipping and the cost to have them mounted on your wheels locally, your nieghborhood tire shop can often beat them on price.
If you are unwilling to make the investment in two sets of tires to optimize your tires performance all year round but care about not dying in a horrible fiery crash in the next blizzard there is an alternative:
The Nokian WR.
These tires are made in Finland (the Finn's know snow and cold) and are regarded as ';all-weather'; tires, not ';all-season';. Basically they are a winter tire, complete with the severe winter service rating on the sidewall but because they don't wear out as quickly as other winter tires you can use them all-year round. I have these tires on my wife's car and they are amazing in the winter - they blow away any all-season tire - and quite good in the summer as well. After 30k miles they are only half-worn which is fantastic given how aggressive they are. Nokian tires should not be hard to find in Denver.
Irregardless of which tire you chose, I always recommend replacing all four so that you have the same traction on all four corners of the car and you can maintain a proper tire rotation schedule which will yield the best wear.
PS
The ';penny check'; is no good. It's a relic from the days when the big concern about tread depth was warranty claims for treadwear, not traction. The penny test shows a tire worn to 2/32'; remaining tread (the legal minimum in most states) but traction begins to fall off dramatically in tires once they wear below 4/32'; remaining tread depth. You need a quarter for that test, not a penny. As apoint of fact, there was a news story just today that Consumer Reports is now recommending tires be replaced at 4/32'; remaining tread, not that I put much faith in their opinions most of the time, but they are right on this one.New tires?
Never been changed? I'd suggest all four and get all terrain tires since you live in Denver. They are a lot better on snow and ice.
Depending on the qrade, brand, quality of tires you get you'll be paying anywhere from around 265.00 to 500.00 for four new tires. That includes mounting them and balancing them.
Expect to spend anywhere from a hour up depending on how busy they are.
I usually try to hit them first thing in the morning before they get busy so I can get in and get out fast.
If your car has ABS brakes, it's always best to get all 4 tires replaced. But the fact that your front tires are bald and the two rears are OK tell us that you don't rotate your tires as you are supposed to.
If your car has all wheel drive, you're always supposed to replace all four tires.
But to answer your question, if you don't have all wheel drive, you can get away with replacing only two front tires. That will fly even if you have ABS brakes. But you may notice some uneven braking during a skid.
Go to tirerack.com and read the tire reviews for the tires available for your vehicle. You want a tire with an ';A'; traction rating. (rated A-C). Temperature ranges are also rated A-C. But it's hard to find a tire with A traction and A temperature rating. A traction has an aggressive tread and that creates more heat. The last number is the treadwear life rating. It starts at 100 and goes up from there. A tire with a rating of 400 will wear 4x longer than a 100 tire. You can find tires rated all the way up to 800, but that long tread wear life comes at a cost. They use harder rubber to get that long life. Hard rubber isn't as effective on ice and snow. So it's a trade off.
Again, read the ratings and reviews from customer on the tirerack website.
Bridgestone, Michelin, and Goodyear Triple Tread are three top rated tires.
You can expect to pay about $100 each for good tires. If you spend less than $70, you're not getting a good tire.
Rick
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.鈥?/a>
I would buy Four new ones because you will be able to get the best traction. It takes the tire place an average of 90-120 minutes to change the tires on a car. To know how much it will cost, you need to know if you are getting expensive or cheep tires. The cheap on will maybe only last you about 40000 miles while the expensive ones may get you to 90000 miles. In my opinion, I would go for the more expensive ones. cheap tires cost around $60 a tire while the expensive cost around $90. I bought Goodyear Eagle Response Edge tire for $120 a year ago and they have been great. Buy tires that are discontinued or are last years model because you can get them cheaper and they work just as well. Avoid Kelly tires all together because I have a friend that had a severe blow-out with one when it was 2-months old, he contacted Kelly Tires and sent them the tire, they said it was bad rubber.
Change all! Looks like it will be a cold wet winter, if not you still have the comfort of having new. You will want good tires, probably 75-125 each, 1-2hr at most, if you are good at a little bit of research do that then hit Sam's club, watch some of the tire stores they may hit you for other repairs while doing the tires.
How okay are the back tires? It is your call. You can either save money and risk it, or buy the tires, and have piece of mind. The more tread you have on your tires, the more control you will have on the road, but who knows if you even need the extra traction.
If you're not low on cash, then I suggest buying 4 new tires because 85,000 miles on 1 set of tires is crazy! haha, usually tires wear out around 40,000. You must be one safe driver. On the other hand, if you are on a budget, it is completely fine to just buy 2 tires.
The process takes 30 minutes if there's no wait.
You can expect to pay $50 up to $200 for each tire, plus mounting, tire disposal, valve stem and warrenty if there is any.
all four would be best. since your front tires give your your traction ans most of your braking and steering, these first if you have to make a choice. The back ones will help prevent spinouts if they were fresh. Get either good all-season tires if you don't drive a lot or long distances, if you have to rely on your car or drive a lot, then get tires that are M%26amp;S (mud and snow) or winter radials. (They don't make ';all-terrain'; tires for Avalons) Price shouldn't be more than $100 per tire (installed) expect it to take an hour to remove the old and install the new. Also, a good idea to get an allignment to protect your new tire investment. Some garages will offer a discount if you get the tires there too.
Generally, on tire changing, it takes between 15-25 minutes per tire, depending on the profile and rim design, thats also including balancing. Since you have never changed the tires on the vehicle, I would suggest changing all 4 tires as with age the rubber dries out and starts to crack and is more likly to blow out (although very rare on weather cracked tires). Going into winter its always good to have good tires on your car. Since you are probably inexperianced in driving in icy/snowy conditions I would recomend snow tires (they do not act like an all season or summer tire on dry road, but they will be a lot better then an all season or summer tire (summer tires in ice and snow is suicide)). For a good quality tire, I would be guessing starting at about $100 for a decent quality tire, plue installation, (at my shop about $20/tire). If your rim size is an odd or uncommon size, tire prices can go up to starting at $300+. I would expect to pay between $120-$180/tire with installation for a good quality brand name tire. Assuming its a relativly common size.
I have seen some tires starting at $60, in a brand name tire, but leading into the $200 - $300 range for the same tire in a different odd ball size.
Ohh baby, a winter novice! If you work around someone who could tell you the average winter snowfall right where your ';sittin'; There are plenty of choices. If you had some winter experiance you could get away with a pair of Yokohama TRZ - 205 - 65 -15's from tirerack.com for $79.00 ea. You enter your zipcode to them and they'll advise you of local installers. If you were my little girl (I have two your age) I'd want you on 4 snows all winter and kick-em off in the spring. They (tirerack and any Toyota dealer in your area) will tell you the same thing: Its pretty dangerous to drive around with a ton of front traction with tires on ther rear which can lead to an un-balanced grip condition. This may lead to a loose rear end or a spin out when you least expect it.
OK, how about a real answer for a change?
I live in Minnesota, so I understand your climate needs and I work in the tire industry so unlike the other people who have responded so far, I have some idea what I'm talking about.
I find it shocking that you would still be riding on the original hoops after 80k miles and 7 years. When new these cars came equipped with either Bridgestone Potenza RE92 tires (15-inch) or Michelin MXV4+ (16-inch), neither of which has a reputation for lasting much longer than 40k miles and the Bridgestone's are horrendous in snow even when new. If you still had those you would have got rid of them at the first snowflake. As I alluded to, your 2000 Avalon will have one of two tire sizes fitted: P205/65R15 92H or P205/60R16 91H. I'm not sure which size is fitted to your particular vehicle so I'll make suggestions for both. I have personal experience with all of the tires I will talk about in heat, rain and snow and ice conditions either in the real world, on the test track, or both.
Ignore the guy who said you need ';all-terrain'; tires. That is too ridiculous for a response.
Ignore rick and his advice about ';traction ratings'; too. The UTQG ratings that are given to all passenger tires in the U.S. are about as useful as t-ts on a bull. They don't tell you anything about how a tire is going to perform in the real world.
In either P205/65R15 92H or P205/60R16 91H I can recommend the BF Goodrich Traction T/A H as a competent al-season performer at an attractive price point. 60k mileage warranty on that one.
A better but more expensive choice would be the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity which is really a marvel of tire engineering. Fantastic in every way. 70k mileage warranty to boot
Michelin's Primacy MXV4 is the replacement for the MXV4+ that has been a popular Original Equipment fit tire for many years. The Primacy promises longer wear and better traction and probably has the lowest rolling resistance of the bunch (for good gas mileage). I have not driven this tire in snow yet. It has only been out for a few months so I just have not had a chance, but they should be decent enough. for the money though if it were my own car I would chose the Bridgestone's.
The Goodyear Assurance Tripletread (make sure it is the Tripletread, not the Comfortread) gets great reviews for rain and snow traction and has a very long 80k mileage warranty to boot but I think there are some supply issues with these right now. If you can find them this would be my #2 choice behind the Bridgestones. Someone else mentioned the Goodyear Eagle ResponsEdge. I would not recommend this tire to someone living in Denver. That tire is a ';hihg-performance'; tire for people who like to play Mario Andretti around the cloverleafs. You don't strike me as the type. The Tripletreads will be orders-of-magnitude better for the way you use your car.
If it were me and I lived in Denver I would actually invest in 2 sets of wheels and tires - one for summer and one for winter, the latter fitted with tires dedicated specifically for winter use such as the Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60. I live in Minnesota and this is what I do on my personal vehicle. A dedicated winter tire like that is just so much better in very cold temperatures, snow and ice than so-called ';all-season'; tires that you can not even compare them. Remember, if you read the fine print ';all-season'; tires are only useful in ';light snow';. Also all-season tires tread rubber loses elasticity (traction) at temperatures below 45-deg F so that even on a cold day without any snow or ice a winter tire will work better than an all-season tire.
The Tirerack.com is a great place to get wheels and winter tires because they are extremely price competitive and will mount and balance the tires at no charge when you buy the wheels at the same time. You can buy just tires from them too and while their tire pricing is very cheap, once you add shipping and the cost to have them mounted on your wheels locally, your nieghborhood tire shop can often beat them on price.
If you are unwilling to make the investment in two sets of tires to optimize your tires performance all year round but care about not dying in a horrible fiery crash in the next blizzard there is an alternative:
The Nokian WR.
These tires are made in Finland (the Finn's know snow and cold) and are regarded as ';all-weather'; tires, not ';all-season';. Basically they are a winter tire, complete with the severe winter service rating on the sidewall but because they don't wear out as quickly as other winter tires you can use them all-year round. I have these tires on my wife's car and they are amazing in the winter - they blow away any all-season tire - and quite good in the summer as well. After 30k miles they are only half-worn which is fantastic given how aggressive they are. Nokian tires should not be hard to find in Denver.
Irregardless of which tire you chose, I always recommend replacing all four so that you have the same traction on all four corners of the car and you can maintain a proper tire rotation schedule which will yield the best wear.
PS
The ';penny check'; is no good. It's a relic from the days when the big concern about tread depth was warranty claims for treadwear, not traction. The penny test shows a tire worn to 2/32'; remaining tread (the legal minimum in most states) but traction begins to fall off dramatically in tires once they wear below 4/32'; remaining tread depth. You need a quarter for that test, not a penny. As apoint of fact, there was a news story just today that Consumer Reports is now recommending tires be replaced at 4/32'; remaining tread, not that I put much faith in their opinions most of the time, but they are right on this one.New tires?
Never been changed? I'd suggest all four and get all terrain tires since you live in Denver. They are a lot better on snow and ice.
Depending on the qrade, brand, quality of tires you get you'll be paying anywhere from around 265.00 to 500.00 for four new tires. That includes mounting them and balancing them.
Expect to spend anywhere from a hour up depending on how busy they are.
I usually try to hit them first thing in the morning before they get busy so I can get in and get out fast.
If your car has ABS brakes, it's always best to get all 4 tires replaced. But the fact that your front tires are bald and the two rears are OK tell us that you don't rotate your tires as you are supposed to.
If your car has all wheel drive, you're always supposed to replace all four tires.
But to answer your question, if you don't have all wheel drive, you can get away with replacing only two front tires. That will fly even if you have ABS brakes. But you may notice some uneven braking during a skid.
Go to tirerack.com and read the tire reviews for the tires available for your vehicle. You want a tire with an ';A'; traction rating. (rated A-C). Temperature ranges are also rated A-C. But it's hard to find a tire with A traction and A temperature rating. A traction has an aggressive tread and that creates more heat. The last number is the treadwear life rating. It starts at 100 and goes up from there. A tire with a rating of 400 will wear 4x longer than a 100 tire. You can find tires rated all the way up to 800, but that long tread wear life comes at a cost. They use harder rubber to get that long life. Hard rubber isn't as effective on ice and snow. So it's a trade off.
Again, read the ratings and reviews from customer on the tirerack website.
Bridgestone, Michelin, and Goodyear Triple Tread are three top rated tires.
You can expect to pay about $100 each for good tires. If you spend less than $70, you're not getting a good tire.
Rick
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.鈥?/a>
I would buy Four new ones because you will be able to get the best traction. It takes the tire place an average of 90-120 minutes to change the tires on a car. To know how much it will cost, you need to know if you are getting expensive or cheep tires. The cheap on will maybe only last you about 40000 miles while the expensive ones may get you to 90000 miles. In my opinion, I would go for the more expensive ones. cheap tires cost around $60 a tire while the expensive cost around $90. I bought Goodyear Eagle Response Edge tire for $120 a year ago and they have been great. Buy tires that are discontinued or are last years model because you can get them cheaper and they work just as well. Avoid Kelly tires all together because I have a friend that had a severe blow-out with one when it was 2-months old, he contacted Kelly Tires and sent them the tire, they said it was bad rubber.
Change all! Looks like it will be a cold wet winter, if not you still have the comfort of having new. You will want good tires, probably 75-125 each, 1-2hr at most, if you are good at a little bit of research do that then hit Sam's club, watch some of the tire stores they may hit you for other repairs while doing the tires.
How okay are the back tires? It is your call. You can either save money and risk it, or buy the tires, and have piece of mind. The more tread you have on your tires, the more control you will have on the road, but who knows if you even need the extra traction.
If you're not low on cash, then I suggest buying 4 new tires because 85,000 miles on 1 set of tires is crazy! haha, usually tires wear out around 40,000. You must be one safe driver. On the other hand, if you are on a budget, it is completely fine to just buy 2 tires.
The process takes 30 minutes if there's no wait.
You can expect to pay $50 up to $200 for each tire, plus mounting, tire disposal, valve stem and warrenty if there is any.
all four would be best. since your front tires give your your traction ans most of your braking and steering, these first if you have to make a choice. The back ones will help prevent spinouts if they were fresh. Get either good all-season tires if you don't drive a lot or long distances, if you have to rely on your car or drive a lot, then get tires that are M%26amp;S (mud and snow) or winter radials. (They don't make ';all-terrain'; tires for Avalons) Price shouldn't be more than $100 per tire (installed) expect it to take an hour to remove the old and install the new. Also, a good idea to get an allignment to protect your new tire investment. Some garages will offer a discount if you get the tires there too.
Generally, on tire changing, it takes between 15-25 minutes per tire, depending on the profile and rim design, thats also including balancing. Since you have never changed the tires on the vehicle, I would suggest changing all 4 tires as with age the rubber dries out and starts to crack and is more likly to blow out (although very rare on weather cracked tires). Going into winter its always good to have good tires on your car. Since you are probably inexperianced in driving in icy/snowy conditions I would recomend snow tires (they do not act like an all season or summer tire on dry road, but they will be a lot better then an all season or summer tire (summer tires in ice and snow is suicide)). For a good quality tire, I would be guessing starting at about $100 for a decent quality tire, plue installation, (at my shop about $20/tire). If your rim size is an odd or uncommon size, tire prices can go up to starting at $300+. I would expect to pay between $120-$180/tire with installation for a good quality brand name tire. Assuming its a relativly common size.
I have seen some tires starting at $60, in a brand name tire, but leading into the $200 - $300 range for the same tire in a different odd ball size.
Ohh baby, a winter novice! If you work around someone who could tell you the average winter snowfall right where your ';sittin'; There are plenty of choices. If you had some winter experiance you could get away with a pair of Yokohama TRZ - 205 - 65 -15's from tirerack.com for $79.00 ea. You enter your zipcode to them and they'll advise you of local installers. If you were my little girl (I have two your age) I'd want you on 4 snows all winter and kick-em off in the spring. They (tirerack and any Toyota dealer in your area) will tell you the same thing: Its pretty dangerous to drive around with a ton of front traction with tires on ther rear which can lead to an un-balanced grip condition. This may lead to a loose rear end or a spin out when you least expect it.
Tire change on 07 Sportster...?
How long would it take the Harley dealer to change front and rear tires on my sportster. I am just trying to figure out how much its gonna cost.Tire change on 07 Sportster...?
Like the first guy, I would also advise you to find a good independent shop that knows something about Harleys. The dealers do often charge too much and in my years of dealing with them they do not generally provide good service. I find independent shops care more about their customers and do a better job for people who become regular customers.Tire change on 07 Sportster...?
It would probably be cheaper for you if you took it to an independent shop to have them changed. Dealerships tend to be very expensive on tire changes. Not just HD dealerships but all of them.
Most dealerships will charge by the hour to take wheels on and off the bike. So for general figuring purposes figure 1 hour for each wheel to remove and reinstall. (30 minutes give or take to remove the front, then 30 to put it back on). Average shop cost in US is $70/per hour. So $140 for front and back wheel to remove and reinstall both (plus or minus some)
Then the cost of the actual tire change which is generally about $20-50. per tire (depending on just where you are, if you bought the tire at the dealer, and what the market will bear) for the mount and balance.
two hours...even though they'll probably say less. the front may be quicker and then you have to take into consideration whether there is a lot of chrome on your bike or not.
Front tire, about $140.
Rear tire about $160.
Plus 2 hours labor at shop rate.
Or thereabouts.
I go to an independent shop.
Like many others, he charges fixed rates for tire changes.
Those fixed rates include the mount and balance.
Tube and rim strip extra.
Rates for wheels on the bike are understandably higher than for off the bike.
I think they were $20F/$30R and $40F/50R.
The lower price on the front reflects the time difference.
Dude, youre looking at about 350.00 bux. tires are at least 100.00 each. dont cheap out on tires its life or death
You have a dealer change tires? BWWHAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAA! Get a car RUB.
Like the first guy, I would also advise you to find a good independent shop that knows something about Harleys. The dealers do often charge too much and in my years of dealing with them they do not generally provide good service. I find independent shops care more about their customers and do a better job for people who become regular customers.Tire change on 07 Sportster...?
It would probably be cheaper for you if you took it to an independent shop to have them changed. Dealerships tend to be very expensive on tire changes. Not just HD dealerships but all of them.
Most dealerships will charge by the hour to take wheels on and off the bike. So for general figuring purposes figure 1 hour for each wheel to remove and reinstall. (30 minutes give or take to remove the front, then 30 to put it back on). Average shop cost in US is $70/per hour. So $140 for front and back wheel to remove and reinstall both (plus or minus some)
Then the cost of the actual tire change which is generally about $20-50. per tire (depending on just where you are, if you bought the tire at the dealer, and what the market will bear) for the mount and balance.
two hours...even though they'll probably say less. the front may be quicker and then you have to take into consideration whether there is a lot of chrome on your bike or not.
Front tire, about $140.
Rear tire about $160.
Plus 2 hours labor at shop rate.
Or thereabouts.
I go to an independent shop.
Like many others, he charges fixed rates for tire changes.
Those fixed rates include the mount and balance.
Tube and rim strip extra.
Rates for wheels on the bike are understandably higher than for off the bike.
I think they were $20F/$30R and $40F/50R.
The lower price on the front reflects the time difference.
Dude, youre looking at about 350.00 bux. tires are at least 100.00 each. dont cheap out on tires its life or death
You have a dealer change tires? BWWHAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAA! Get a car RUB.
What do you think about a girl that knows how to change a tire.?
Hot or not.What do you think about a girl that knows how to change a tire.?
Hot.
Hot.
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