I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab with a V8 4.7 Liter. My axle ratio is 3.55. I have 17 inch tires and they recommend 44 PSI. My GVWR is 6010lbs with a maximum trailer weight of 4,450. I am planning on pulling a 22 foot camper which is around 3,800lbs. Whew!, now to my question. Should I be changing my tire pressure when pulling the camper and if so, by how much. Thanks.Changing tire pressure when towing?
Unless your tires are load range E the max tire air pressure is 44 psi. Tires get really hot pulling that much weight. Air pressure in the tires will increase as the tire gets hotter. If you start off with 44 psi You can end up with as much as 50 to 60 psi after the tire gets hot exceeding the tires max air pressure and possibly blowing the tire. Open the drivers door and look for a tag that has the tire size and recommended air pressure. It should be between 32 to 36 for Lt rated tires or (50-Front 80-rear for Load range E tires.Changing tire pressure when towing?
I believe so, however you have to read the manual since that'll tell you by how much.
The factory pressure specs will be good enough for that... If you have more pressure in the tire then you pass the capacity that is SAFELY recommended for that tire. Also, with the weight of a trailer or camper too much pressure will increase the risk of a blowout.
This info is printed right on the side of the tire. It tells the max pressure you can use at the max weight.
Monday, December 12, 2011
Could you explain JUST IN 5 steps how to change a tyre?
imagine that you have to explain by 5 frames drawings!.. kind of a challenge...Could you explain JUST IN 5 steps how to change a tyre?
1. loosen the lug nuts while still on the ground don't take off just loose
2. jack ep wheel make sure th other wheels are blocked from rolling
3. take the lug nuts all the way off and remove the old wheel
4. put the spare tire on and snug up the bolts
5. lower the vehicle tighten the lug nuts and your doneCould you explain JUST IN 5 steps how to change a tyre?
1. use jack to raise car
2. take tire off
3. put new tire on.
4. take car off jack
5. have a beer.
1.loosen the nuts
2. jack up the car
3. take out he tyre and put in the new one.
4.lower the jack and tighten the nuts
1. Set parking brake and put transmission in gear or in park.
2. Loosen wheel nuts.
3. Raise car.
4. Remove/replace wheel.
5. Lower car.
6. Tighten wheel nuts.
I wouldn't recommend leaving any of these steps out, especially if the person needs to have it explained in pictures.
If you are a woman, you can do it in 2 steps.
1) Put on high heels and short skirt.
2) Stand by flat tire and look sad.
Flat tire will be fixed in 2 minutes by a team of men.
You don't know? It's the first thing I learned in driver traning.
start car
stop car
call AMA
get tow truck driver to do it
sell car.....if you cant change a tire buy a bus pass.
1. loosen the lug nuts while still on the ground don't take off just loose
2. jack ep wheel make sure th other wheels are blocked from rolling
3. take the lug nuts all the way off and remove the old wheel
4. put the spare tire on and snug up the bolts
5. lower the vehicle tighten the lug nuts and your doneCould you explain JUST IN 5 steps how to change a tyre?
1. use jack to raise car
2. take tire off
3. put new tire on.
4. take car off jack
5. have a beer.
1.loosen the nuts
2. jack up the car
3. take out he tyre and put in the new one.
4.lower the jack and tighten the nuts
1. Set parking brake and put transmission in gear or in park.
2. Loosen wheel nuts.
3. Raise car.
4. Remove/replace wheel.
5. Lower car.
6. Tighten wheel nuts.
I wouldn't recommend leaving any of these steps out, especially if the person needs to have it explained in pictures.
If you are a woman, you can do it in 2 steps.
1) Put on high heels and short skirt.
2) Stand by flat tire and look sad.
Flat tire will be fixed in 2 minutes by a team of men.
You don't know? It's the first thing I learned in driver traning.
start car
stop car
call AMA
get tow truck driver to do it
sell car.....if you cant change a tire buy a bus pass.
Question on changing tire in your car?
hi
am feeling some kind of wobbing effect in my front right tire in my car...whenever i drive, or press the accelerator at a signal, i get the feeling as though something at the front right wheel,is pulling me to the right......
i checked with the local tire shop and they say seems like the tire might be bad ( i know some tire shoppers just lie, thinking i might buy a new tire,if they say that)...
so,how do i get this fixed.......if at all i have to change the tire, can i go for a used one....Question on changing tire in your car?
The only real way to know if a tire is wobbling is to get with a friend and have them drive alongside you and observe the tire as it is in motion. If they see no wobbling, then you most likely an alignment is necessary.
If the tires have been on your vehicle without rotation for a while, they will actually show unusual wear in various places if your vehicle requires aligning. You can see diagrams that detail the unusual wear and tear at various tire places, like NTB, National Tire %26amp; Battery.
Also, if you see no unusual wear and no wobbling of the tire, your passenger-side suspension is the next thing to check. I recommend checking first the a-frame bushings, lower and upper.
Does the wobbling intensify while turning the steering wheel? If so, is it intensified on the right turn or the left or both? Another factor in the front of your car is the power steering column. Check tie rods for tightness. These are just a few ideas to take to a mechanic to diagnose a direct cause. If bushings need to be replaced, that will be the cheapest of all replacement items.
What vehicle do you drive? Front-wheel drive or rear-wheel?Question on changing tire in your car?
Sounds more like you need a Front End Alignment and NOT a new tires.. Stay clear of places like Pep Boys and American Tire they will rip you off
There is a lot of things that this could be. Check the balance of the tire. Check the front alignment. Check the lug nuts.
It is possible that the front tire is bad, but I would stay away from a used one, only because you dont know any history on it. It could have come off of a car that was on fire and the tire is weak. I realize cost enters into this. Generally you want to replace both tires on that end of the car unless the other is pretty new. If you dont plan on buying one for the other side pretty soon, as it will accelerate wear on that tire.
Change the front two tires around, and then you will know its the tire if it pulls the other way. My guess would be its out of alignment or your tire pressure is low on one side.
You could have a bad tire, what some call a broken belt. one way to check is jack the car up so the front wheels will spin. then looking at the tire from the front of the car spin the tire as fast as you can, if the tire spin straight it is most likely good. if it has a wobble, it is most likely bad. Used tires are just that used. You take a chance anytime you buy anything used. I have good luck with used tires. I get them from a junk yard.
Depends on the condition of the tire. Is it properly inflated? Does the tread look worn. You can tell how your tire is turning by the wear.
Your car can be out of alignment and cause the wobble. If you do replace a tire, you should always replace two and put those on the front and the better ones on the rear.
Geeze!
Befoire doing all that crap, check to see if the bolts/nuts holding the tire in place are all tight.
check your tire pressure, esp. make sure the front ones have the same air pressure. If it still pulls it could be an alignment. How old is the car? You mentioned that when you accelerate, there's a funny feeling at the right front wheel. Does it make a popping sound when you turn corners? if so it could be a CV joint that's going bad. Need more info.
am feeling some kind of wobbing effect in my front right tire in my car...whenever i drive, or press the accelerator at a signal, i get the feeling as though something at the front right wheel,is pulling me to the right......
i checked with the local tire shop and they say seems like the tire might be bad ( i know some tire shoppers just lie, thinking i might buy a new tire,if they say that)...
so,how do i get this fixed.......if at all i have to change the tire, can i go for a used one....Question on changing tire in your car?
The only real way to know if a tire is wobbling is to get with a friend and have them drive alongside you and observe the tire as it is in motion. If they see no wobbling, then you most likely an alignment is necessary.
If the tires have been on your vehicle without rotation for a while, they will actually show unusual wear in various places if your vehicle requires aligning. You can see diagrams that detail the unusual wear and tear at various tire places, like NTB, National Tire %26amp; Battery.
Also, if you see no unusual wear and no wobbling of the tire, your passenger-side suspension is the next thing to check. I recommend checking first the a-frame bushings, lower and upper.
Does the wobbling intensify while turning the steering wheel? If so, is it intensified on the right turn or the left or both? Another factor in the front of your car is the power steering column. Check tie rods for tightness. These are just a few ideas to take to a mechanic to diagnose a direct cause. If bushings need to be replaced, that will be the cheapest of all replacement items.
What vehicle do you drive? Front-wheel drive or rear-wheel?Question on changing tire in your car?
Sounds more like you need a Front End Alignment and NOT a new tires.. Stay clear of places like Pep Boys and American Tire they will rip you off
There is a lot of things that this could be. Check the balance of the tire. Check the front alignment. Check the lug nuts.
It is possible that the front tire is bad, but I would stay away from a used one, only because you dont know any history on it. It could have come off of a car that was on fire and the tire is weak. I realize cost enters into this. Generally you want to replace both tires on that end of the car unless the other is pretty new. If you dont plan on buying one for the other side pretty soon, as it will accelerate wear on that tire.
Change the front two tires around, and then you will know its the tire if it pulls the other way. My guess would be its out of alignment or your tire pressure is low on one side.
You could have a bad tire, what some call a broken belt. one way to check is jack the car up so the front wheels will spin. then looking at the tire from the front of the car spin the tire as fast as you can, if the tire spin straight it is most likely good. if it has a wobble, it is most likely bad. Used tires are just that used. You take a chance anytime you buy anything used. I have good luck with used tires. I get them from a junk yard.
Depends on the condition of the tire. Is it properly inflated? Does the tread look worn. You can tell how your tire is turning by the wear.
Your car can be out of alignment and cause the wobble. If you do replace a tire, you should always replace two and put those on the front and the better ones on the rear.
Geeze!
Befoire doing all that crap, check to see if the bolts/nuts holding the tire in place are all tight.
check your tire pressure, esp. make sure the front ones have the same air pressure. If it still pulls it could be an alignment. How old is the car? You mentioned that when you accelerate, there's a funny feeling at the right front wheel. Does it make a popping sound when you turn corners? if so it could be a CV joint that's going bad. Need more info.
When u change a tire how to u balance it?
when you get your wheels balance they put lil weights on the inner side of the rim but you need a get them balance w/ a machine that any tire shop has it'll cost you around 5 to 10 dollars a tire depending on your wheel size but if you just changed a tire cuz you got a flat then dont worryWhen u change a tire how to u balance it?
With a wheel balancer. Which if you have the money and the knowledge to use it, you can buy one for @$4000.When u change a tire how to u balance it?
';U'; dont. it is balanced when they put the tire onto the rim at the tire Store.
Are you changing a tire from the rim or changing a tire from the car to the spare? Normally is done in the shop which mounts the tire onto the rim. They have the tools.
very carefully or it will fall on your leg %26amp; hurt you.
With a wheel balancer. Which if you have the money and the knowledge to use it, you can buy one for @$4000.When u change a tire how to u balance it?
';U'; dont. it is balanced when they put the tire onto the rim at the tire Store.
Are you changing a tire from the rim or changing a tire from the car to the spare? Normally is done in the shop which mounts the tire onto the rim. They have the tools.
very carefully or it will fall on your leg %26amp; hurt you.
I am going on a road trip. i need to spend at least $100 on car preparation?
list of things i need to get my car ready (oil change, tire rotation, etc.) along with prices on how much it will cost.I am going on a road trip. i need to spend at least $100 on car preparation?
good luck on your road trip ! alot of places offer free 16 point inspections i suggest you have your vehicle thoroughly inspected before you go on this trip ! brakes - oil %26amp; filter - belts - hoses - tune up - tires - brake lines - air filter and so on. the inspection is free but as far as the work they can only replace what you tell them to, any additional work is on them , just write down what you gave them the ok to do and agree on a price prior to the work being performed.I am going on a road trip. i need to spend at least $100 on car preparation?
If you go to Meineke, a tire rotation, alignment, oil change, etc. will cost you $40. Go on their wesite for the full details.
Just do an overall check of the car. make sure the battery is good and check out all the lights to see if they all work. Check wiper blades,and make sure all you guages are working properly. make sure car has been fully serviced. also check your spare tire and jack with a handle. Most important check the belts (fan/alt. a/c power steering ) and all fluid levels which is part of maintenance. Make sure everything works.advise for investment banking name my dog
good luck on your road trip ! alot of places offer free 16 point inspections i suggest you have your vehicle thoroughly inspected before you go on this trip ! brakes - oil %26amp; filter - belts - hoses - tune up - tires - brake lines - air filter and so on. the inspection is free but as far as the work they can only replace what you tell them to, any additional work is on them , just write down what you gave them the ok to do and agree on a price prior to the work being performed.I am going on a road trip. i need to spend at least $100 on car preparation?
If you go to Meineke, a tire rotation, alignment, oil change, etc. will cost you $40. Go on their wesite for the full details.
Just do an overall check of the car. make sure the battery is good and check out all the lights to see if they all work. Check wiper blades,and make sure all you guages are working properly. make sure car has been fully serviced. also check your spare tire and jack with a handle. Most important check the belts (fan/alt. a/c power steering ) and all fluid levels which is part of maintenance. Make sure everything works.
What equipment does AAA use to change flat tire and how does it do it?
I have had bad experiences with AAA!!!
They have had me find my jack for them to use and my jack is puny and wasn't able to raise my vehicle on the side of the road on gravel. They had me move it using a destroyed rim (the tire exploded on the highway, then the rim was ground down and cracked) so I was up on the pavement so my jack would lift some.
I ran out of gas and the guy expected me to have a gas can he could use to put some gas in my tank. I didn't have a gas can so he grabbed on old plastic coke bottle in the back of my vehicle and started dumping out the coke so he could use it to put gas in my tank! I took the bottle away and told him there was NO WAY he was going to put gas in my tank using a bottle with coke in it! He looked all upset about me being difficult and then called for someone else to bring a gas can for him to use. They brought a gas can without a spout on it so when he tried to add the gas it dumped all down the side and only a little made it into the tank! I actually started yelling at him AND when I got home I called AAA and was yelling at _them_ for what they were doing! I was incredibly upset at their incompetence. And almost every time I used my AAA the people screwed things up in ways that were unbelievable! What equipment does AAA use to change flat tire and how does it do it?
AAA only dispatches a tow company that they have an agreement with and the tow operator fixes your tire. The tow truck is equipped with a fair number of tools and has an air inflation system mounted on it. It takes longer for AA to dispatch the tow than for the tow to replace your tire. The AAA dispatcher will ask if you have a good spare and if not will ask you to get the tire measurements and oftentimes the tow operator will bring the tire if need be.
They have had me find my jack for them to use and my jack is puny and wasn't able to raise my vehicle on the side of the road on gravel. They had me move it using a destroyed rim (the tire exploded on the highway, then the rim was ground down and cracked) so I was up on the pavement so my jack would lift some.
I ran out of gas and the guy expected me to have a gas can he could use to put some gas in my tank. I didn't have a gas can so he grabbed on old plastic coke bottle in the back of my vehicle and started dumping out the coke so he could use it to put gas in my tank! I took the bottle away and told him there was NO WAY he was going to put gas in my tank using a bottle with coke in it! He looked all upset about me being difficult and then called for someone else to bring a gas can for him to use. They brought a gas can without a spout on it so when he tried to add the gas it dumped all down the side and only a little made it into the tank! I actually started yelling at him AND when I got home I called AAA and was yelling at _them_ for what they were doing! I was incredibly upset at their incompetence. And almost every time I used my AAA the people screwed things up in ways that were unbelievable! What equipment does AAA use to change flat tire and how does it do it?
AAA only dispatches a tow company that they have an agreement with and the tow operator fixes your tire. The tow truck is equipped with a fair number of tools and has an air inflation system mounted on it. It takes longer for AA to dispatch the tow than for the tow to replace your tire. The AAA dispatcher will ask if you have a good spare and if not will ask you to get the tire measurements and oftentimes the tow operator will bring the tire if need be.
What is the actual bolt pattern...I know how to change a tire..lol thanks guys?
Ok so Im a girl..lol..I know how to change a tire.. I just dont know the bolt pattern to my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Larado limited edition?What is the actual bolt pattern...I know how to change a tire..lol thanks guys?
I don't want to ';snow'; you with a lot of information but the bolt center a metric distance on your Jeep. Flip any wheel street side down on your vehicle. The bolt center is measured from the dead center of one lug hole - skip a hole and measure to the far side of the second or hole after the one you skipped. In your case the bolt center is 5 (number of lugs) X 127 mm. One millimeter = .0393700. If you want to know what the bolt center is in inches, multiply 127mm X .0383700.
You could have found this information by going to: tirerack.com and key-in wheels for your Jeep. Click on a wheel diameter exactly like yours. The bolt center, wheel off-set and wheel width will be shown.What is the actual bolt pattern...I know how to change a tire..lol thanks guys?
Bolt pattern... hmmmm... when tightening lug nuts you just gradually snug them up going from opposite nuts all the way around to avoid tightening down one side first. Mix em up by opposite sides more or less. Random.
Jeep made 2 different Cherokees, the regular Cherokee and the Grand Cherokee. In 2001, the Grand Cherokee used a 5 lug with a spacing of 4-3/4';, while the standard Cherokee used a 5 lug, 4-1/2'; spacing.
you mean how to tighten the lug nuts ? the way i do it is with a criss cross motion.
When tightening lug nuts, first tighten them all hand tight or snub then start again and tighten them as much as possible with the vehicle still supported. Lower the vehicle just enough where roughly half of the weight is on the tire and tighten according to the recommended torque.
If it's a 4-bolt pattern, tighten in a criss cross pattern like you're drawing a fish.
If it's a 5-bolt pattern, tighten like you are drawing a 5 pointed star.
6-bolt pattern, tighten like you are drawing a 6 pointed star.
I don't want to ';snow'; you with a lot of information but the bolt center a metric distance on your Jeep. Flip any wheel street side down on your vehicle. The bolt center is measured from the dead center of one lug hole - skip a hole and measure to the far side of the second or hole after the one you skipped. In your case the bolt center is 5 (number of lugs) X 127 mm. One millimeter = .0393700. If you want to know what the bolt center is in inches, multiply 127mm X .0383700.
You could have found this information by going to: tirerack.com and key-in wheels for your Jeep. Click on a wheel diameter exactly like yours. The bolt center, wheel off-set and wheel width will be shown.What is the actual bolt pattern...I know how to change a tire..lol thanks guys?
Bolt pattern... hmmmm... when tightening lug nuts you just gradually snug them up going from opposite nuts all the way around to avoid tightening down one side first. Mix em up by opposite sides more or less. Random.
Jeep made 2 different Cherokees, the regular Cherokee and the Grand Cherokee. In 2001, the Grand Cherokee used a 5 lug with a spacing of 4-3/4';, while the standard Cherokee used a 5 lug, 4-1/2'; spacing.
you mean how to tighten the lug nuts ? the way i do it is with a criss cross motion.
When tightening lug nuts, first tighten them all hand tight or snub then start again and tighten them as much as possible with the vehicle still supported. Lower the vehicle just enough where roughly half of the weight is on the tire and tighten according to the recommended torque.
If it's a 4-bolt pattern, tighten in a criss cross pattern like you're drawing a fish.
If it's a 5-bolt pattern, tighten like you are drawing a 5 pointed star.
6-bolt pattern, tighten like you are drawing a 6 pointed star.
How do you change the brake pads on a 2004 chevy silverado?
ive never done anything with the brakes. i know very minimal stuff about mechanical but i want to learn and i need new pads. i basically know how to rotate tires and change the oil and have minor knowledge of parts. Will i be able to do it or am i better off taking it in? i not only want to save money, but to learn more about working on trucks. thanksHow do you change the brake pads on a 2004 chevy silverado?
I would buy a service manual and rock and roll!!!
The fun you'll have with Silverados includes, slide pins ';frozen'; in the brackets. (Aftermarket parts stores are carrying the brackets now, if its stuck, forget the heat go right to the bracket, not very much and will save you a ton of fustration.) I have an 03 that I love but I've seen the same problems with all Chevy trucks especially the rears!
Bank on replacing rotors in the rear pretty much every brake job if its still disc, they went back to drum brakes for 04 which I think are better for a truck especially when pulling my 4,000 lb boat!
Good LuckHow do you change the brake pads on a 2004 chevy silverado?
Its a simple job. Go to the popular mechanics web site. there is a link, That will show you how. I just walked my nieghbor through the process on his 01 chevy truck. The tech hasn't changed in years, Took him two hours. He needed a socket set, a c clamp, and 45 dollars in parts. Cheap and easy.
if you don,t know then you better not try .
I would buy a service manual and rock and roll!!!
The fun you'll have with Silverados includes, slide pins ';frozen'; in the brackets. (Aftermarket parts stores are carrying the brackets now, if its stuck, forget the heat go right to the bracket, not very much and will save you a ton of fustration.) I have an 03 that I love but I've seen the same problems with all Chevy trucks especially the rears!
Bank on replacing rotors in the rear pretty much every brake job if its still disc, they went back to drum brakes for 04 which I think are better for a truck especially when pulling my 4,000 lb boat!
Good LuckHow do you change the brake pads on a 2004 chevy silverado?
Its a simple job. Go to the popular mechanics web site. there is a link, That will show you how. I just walked my nieghbor through the process on his 01 chevy truck. The tech hasn't changed in years, Took him two hours. He needed a socket set, a c clamp, and 45 dollars in parts. Cheap and easy.
if you don,t know then you better not try .
Are chores necessary for good parenting?
Yesterday I visited a good friend of mine and was amazed by his young thirteen year old son. I had never met his family before. He does not believe in 鈥榗hores鈥?but tries to teach his son to perform a wide range of skills. His son can cook, clean, change tires.... and only God knows what else. His skills are so diverse! Personally I think this is due to the fact his son is very gifted... He can learn a language like nothing else and listening to his French but me to shame. He tries to introduce something new every day whether it a random fact about another culture or a new cake recipe!
Anyway while I was there the boy aunt/ my friend sister kept saying how lazy the boy was. She complained about everything possible picking up on every flaw in the boy. She accused my friend of not disciplining the boy well enough (he does not believe in smacking). She accused the boy of being pretentious (really it is not his fault his vocabulary is so amazing or his articulation so fine). But most of all she berated my friend about the lack of chores. My friend answered that it was his decision to have his son not vice-versa and though the boy cleans up well after himself 鈥榗hores鈥?are for an adult.
Personally I found my friends son to be a wonderful child. He has his own opinions and is not afraid to share them and he has more than enough skills to help him when he grows up.
Now onto what you think! Are chores necessary for good parenting?Are chores necessary for good parenting?
I think respect is the most important factor. In some families that might mean sharing the chores, in others it won't. Families operate differently. Your friend's son sounds great and a confident, well rounded young man. That must be partly because of good parenting.Are chores necessary for good parenting?
The only chores I have are too feed my pets and keep my room clean and i'm doing pretty well as far as character development goes. My grades are perfect too. I'm really lazy and also kind of pretentious, though. Your friends might be onto something.
My parents don't believe in punishment at all, but I guess i've just never gotten in trouble enough to need punishment.
Sure, it gives them a sense of responsibility in their life. Maybe a chance to get some allowence, praise etc. It doesnt always have to be chores it could just be the simple task of putting your things away, helping out.
YES YES YES YES YES!!!
I think I've made my point, but children will be a step up when it comes to work ethic, responsibility and they will know how to do household chores when they move out on their own.
I think what ever your friend is doing they should keep doing it, the boy sounds like a wonderful child. When I was growing up I never had chores and neither did my sisters and brother. We'd just help out on out own accord. My parents never nagged so it made us want to help out.
He a well rounded child very gifted in the skills he was taught it will help him later on in life as for this child aunt stop hating.
Yes chores are good for to teach children responsibility to care for themselves and some things a child learn in the home can create options in life such as learning to mow lawn etc can lead to owning a landscaping business mop floor and vacuum floor janitor business cooking etc. so chores are good parenting.
Anyway while I was there the boy aunt/ my friend sister kept saying how lazy the boy was. She complained about everything possible picking up on every flaw in the boy. She accused my friend of not disciplining the boy well enough (he does not believe in smacking). She accused the boy of being pretentious (really it is not his fault his vocabulary is so amazing or his articulation so fine). But most of all she berated my friend about the lack of chores. My friend answered that it was his decision to have his son not vice-versa and though the boy cleans up well after himself 鈥榗hores鈥?are for an adult.
Personally I found my friends son to be a wonderful child. He has his own opinions and is not afraid to share them and he has more than enough skills to help him when he grows up.
Now onto what you think! Are chores necessary for good parenting?Are chores necessary for good parenting?
I think respect is the most important factor. In some families that might mean sharing the chores, in others it won't. Families operate differently. Your friend's son sounds great and a confident, well rounded young man. That must be partly because of good parenting.Are chores necessary for good parenting?
The only chores I have are too feed my pets and keep my room clean and i'm doing pretty well as far as character development goes. My grades are perfect too. I'm really lazy and also kind of pretentious, though. Your friends might be onto something.
My parents don't believe in punishment at all, but I guess i've just never gotten in trouble enough to need punishment.
Sure, it gives them a sense of responsibility in their life. Maybe a chance to get some allowence, praise etc. It doesnt always have to be chores it could just be the simple task of putting your things away, helping out.
YES YES YES YES YES!!!
I think I've made my point, but children will be a step up when it comes to work ethic, responsibility and they will know how to do household chores when they move out on their own.
I think what ever your friend is doing they should keep doing it, the boy sounds like a wonderful child. When I was growing up I never had chores and neither did my sisters and brother. We'd just help out on out own accord. My parents never nagged so it made us want to help out.
He a well rounded child very gifted in the skills he was taught it will help him later on in life as for this child aunt stop hating.
Yes chores are good for to teach children responsibility to care for themselves and some things a child learn in the home can create options in life such as learning to mow lawn etc can lead to owning a landscaping business mop floor and vacuum floor janitor business cooking etc. so chores are good parenting.
96 honda accord just stopped?
Today when my wife came home, she said it was makin a loud sound, kinda like somethin might be loose. I dont know anything about cars, except maybe how to change tires and oil. well, this evening when I went to leave, I made it to the corner stop sign and my car just stopped and it wont start back up......any suggestions????? please help, we only have one vehicle!!96 honda accord just stopped?
maybe the loud sound was the motor knocking.....hate to say it but if it was making a loud banging noise then it is toast and you need motor!!!!!!....check the oil to see if there is oil in the car and check the radiator for coolant.....if either is low or empty you probably fried it.....get a pro to look at it!!!!96 honda accord just stopped?
check your fluids
might be low on oil
Not enough info here, does the engine crank over when you turn the key? Could be a broken timing belt..if it suddenly quit...this could cause some major damage to the engine.emo hair
maybe the loud sound was the motor knocking.....hate to say it but if it was making a loud banging noise then it is toast and you need motor!!!!!!....check the oil to see if there is oil in the car and check the radiator for coolant.....if either is low or empty you probably fried it.....get a pro to look at it!!!!96 honda accord just stopped?
check your fluids
might be low on oil
Not enough info here, does the engine crank over when you turn the key? Could be a broken timing belt..if it suddenly quit...this could cause some major damage to the engine.
How do i get the hood to open in my 2004 vw new beetle convertible?
also if ya can, how do i adjust the telescopic steering wheel? i just bought this car and it did not have an owners manual!!! i am so upset. i don't even know if i need a special wheel lock key for my wheels so when i need to change tires. please help. i am so worried. i do not even have the radio code. any info you can give me on the features above mentioned while be greatly appreaciated!!!! thanks sooooo muchHow do i get the hood to open in my 2004 vw new beetle convertible?
the hood release is on next to your left foot area from the drivers seat, the steering adjusts from a lever under the steering wheel column pull the lever down then adjust in out up or down. check the spare tire for the wheel lock key, it should be in there. the radio code is something you cannot get unless you go to a dealership. hope this helps.How do i get the hood to open in my 2004 vw new beetle convertible?
hood
there should be a handle at the bottom left
it kinda blends in
wheel
just look at the wheel
cant be that hard..
People like you owning vehicles scares me and makes me feel bad for the car. *shakes head*
I love this question lolol
the hood release is on next to your left foot area from the drivers seat, the steering adjusts from a lever under the steering wheel column pull the lever down then adjust in out up or down. check the spare tire for the wheel lock key, it should be in there. the radio code is something you cannot get unless you go to a dealership. hope this helps.How do i get the hood to open in my 2004 vw new beetle convertible?
hood
there should be a handle at the bottom left
it kinda blends in
wheel
just look at the wheel
cant be that hard..
People like you owning vehicles scares me and makes me feel bad for the car. *shakes head*
I love this question lolol
Is my car battery almost dead?
I'm not sure how long I've had it. 2 weeks ago, I brought the car to the mechanic to change tires. He also cleaned the corrosion foo the battery (now there is that red substance on the terminal, I'm guessing it's to keep them from getting corroded again). Anyway, since they cleaned remove the corrosion (I'm not sure how much was on it), it's the third time that I cannot start it (the last 2 times, I just had to turn the key on off position, then turn it back on, and it was ok), but now, the car doesn't want to start at all, nothing works except for the radio works off and on and the digital mileage on the dashboard.Is my car battery almost dead?
sounds like he may have not tightend thim goodIs my car battery almost dead?
It may be that the part of the terminal that connects to the wire may need cleaned out as well.I'm not sure on your car if it comes apart, but replacement terminals are cheap and easy to install just in case they don't.If your battery had alot of crud on it, chances are theres some in the terminals where you can't see it as well.
The battery should have a date on it. Either, manufactured date or capacity date (approx life end date). Just like food, when in doubt throw it out! If it was a good battery and not old at all, the other possibility is that your alternator is going out or is bad. The alternator charges your battery. Also make sure the Battery cables are properly tightend and you have a good ground, check the ground cable to the chasis.
clean the battery terminal connections metal to metal. i've seen people spray the red stuff on before connecting. i can't see how it works.
well for starters try unconnecting and reconnecting the terminal wires.
check the battery cable connections. sounds like they are not tight enough.
you probably need new ends on the battery cables. with all that corrode they are probably ate up.
sounds like he may have not tightend thim goodIs my car battery almost dead?
It may be that the part of the terminal that connects to the wire may need cleaned out as well.I'm not sure on your car if it comes apart, but replacement terminals are cheap and easy to install just in case they don't.If your battery had alot of crud on it, chances are theres some in the terminals where you can't see it as well.
The battery should have a date on it. Either, manufactured date or capacity date (approx life end date). Just like food, when in doubt throw it out! If it was a good battery and not old at all, the other possibility is that your alternator is going out or is bad. The alternator charges your battery. Also make sure the Battery cables are properly tightend and you have a good ground, check the ground cable to the chasis.
clean the battery terminal connections metal to metal. i've seen people spray the red stuff on before connecting. i can't see how it works.
well for starters try unconnecting and reconnecting the terminal wires.
check the battery cable connections. sounds like they are not tight enough.
you probably need new ends on the battery cables. with all that corrode they are probably ate up.
RC Car Suspension Racing Question...?
I have just purchased an Associated 12R5.1 1/12th scale RC car. I was wandering, on a medium grip carpet track, where or how soft should I make the middle spring to get maximum traffic for the rear-end? I race in the 13.5 Lipo class and we get to speeds of around 45mph going down the straight away. I am losing traction coming out of the sweeper and the car just comes around? How should I fix this (I cannot change tires as they are mandatory in this class that everyone runs the same tire compounds). Thanks!RC Car Suspension Racing Question...?
That is an excellent question. If you are running the base setup of the R5.1 then you probably have the gold or red spring on it. At our track which is also a medium grip carpet track we try to run as stiff of a spring possible for maximum steering and corner speed without causing the rear end to spin out in the corners. Try to run one spring softer.
So if you have a copper spring on now - then go to a red spring in the middle. If you are running a red spring, try a gold, etc. etc.
You shouldn't have to run anything lighter than a gold though.
That should solve your problem.
That is an excellent question. If you are running the base setup of the R5.1 then you probably have the gold or red spring on it. At our track which is also a medium grip carpet track we try to run as stiff of a spring possible for maximum steering and corner speed without causing the rear end to spin out in the corners. Try to run one spring softer.
So if you have a copper spring on now - then go to a red spring in the middle. If you are running a red spring, try a gold, etc. etc.
You shouldn't have to run anything lighter than a gold though.
That should solve your problem.
Would like more info on these cars?
So ive been looking at these certified pre owned cars and trying to decide which one to get. Theyre all about the same price some have more miles then the others but they all have less then 50,000 miles. Wondering if you could answer these questions Do any of them have any known problems or recalls? Hows the reliability? Cheapest repairs and parts? Im sure the European ones are more expensive but how much more? Do any of them require special maintenance good or bad? Like ive heard 09 VWs needs oil change every 10,000 miles. Are any of them more expensive to maintain? ex. expensive oil changes, tires, light bulbs, wear and tear items.
07 Audi A4 2.0T
07-09 VW Passat 2.0T
06-07 Volvo S60 2.0T
06 Dodge Charger SXT 3.5l V6
08-10 Toyota Camry SE
08-10 Chevy Malibu
06-07 Acura TL
Any other cars you would sugguest. Theyre all about the same to insure the cheapest to insure is the Camry and the Charger is the most expensive. ThanksWould like more info on these cars?
I have owned the Volvo S60 and Toyota Camry and driven the Acura and Audi A4. I think you need to decide what aspect is important for you.
Cost wise, the largest item is likely to be fuel consumption, of which the Dodge Charger and the Acura are the bad boys, the others being all roughly the same. This is a big cost, considering 5-7 mpg difference between those two and the others can be US$500 or so per year given 15,000 miles per year. - Just noticed your driving profile of 80% urban. You need to do the math based on the urban cycle figures for these models. This difference could be much larger than I estimated!
Another big cost is depreciation. Decide how long you intend to keep the car, then add that number of years to the models/years you are looking at and compare the book values for that year to get depreciation.
For all models, you can expect 200,000 miles of life, given regular proper servicing. European models, particularly the ones you are comparing, are a rare sight by the roadside. I don't think you should be too concerned about reliability. Some may argue that the US models are less reliable, but I bet this is offset by cheaper parts and labor. I would not recommend looking at this in too much detail, which is a bewildering maze and guaranteed to raise your blood pressure!
I notice these models you compare vary a lot in terms of size. Is this an issue for you? The only one I would avoid if you are claustrophobic is the Audi. I don't like confined spaces and that one bugged me!
That all said, I recommend to look at that illusive thing, ';build quality';. Again, you have to look at OLDER years of the SAME models you are looking at, based on how many years you plan to keep it. How have they stood the test of time? Do they look shabby? Or still factory fresh? When doing this, don't forget the interiors!
Good luck!Would like more info on these cars?
That is a lot of research to do. I suggest you go to www.edmunds.com %26amp; look at each car. Weigh the pros n' cons of each to make an informed decision. The only way to know all those answers to have owned them all. Your not gonna find anyone who has. But ask a specific question about each car one at a time under Car Makes in automotive here in Y!A. I myself have a 2010 Malibu V6. It's been a great car since I got it in Nov 09. I ordered it from Chevy w/ the V6. It's a heavy car, but the standard 4 cylinder does an adequate job. But for real hwy cruising the V6 is preferred. The Malibu is currently on Consumer Reports recommended list. As far as repairs go, dealers will always be the highest. But a small town garage will do fine for general repairs (tires, brakes, oil changes). You can save money there by shopping around. Prices vary widely based on where you live. Rural vs. city makes a huge diff right there. Cars like your Audi, VW, %26amp; Volvo that have turbo engines, just about always require high octane fuel. As if the price of gas wasn't bad enough you have to buy the expensive stuff to enjoy the car. That would turn me off right there. The rest of them do fine on reg gas. I would take a pass on the Dodge unless you like full sized cars. It's a bit of a challenge trying to park a large car unless you are used to it. So it's gonna be a close tie between the rest. I guess it will come down to the better deal and condition of the car. Good luck!
07 Audi A4 2.0T
07-09 VW Passat 2.0T
06-07 Volvo S60 2.0T
06 Dodge Charger SXT 3.5l V6
08-10 Toyota Camry SE
08-10 Chevy Malibu
06-07 Acura TL
Any other cars you would sugguest. Theyre all about the same to insure the cheapest to insure is the Camry and the Charger is the most expensive. ThanksWould like more info on these cars?
I have owned the Volvo S60 and Toyota Camry and driven the Acura and Audi A4. I think you need to decide what aspect is important for you.
Cost wise, the largest item is likely to be fuel consumption, of which the Dodge Charger and the Acura are the bad boys, the others being all roughly the same. This is a big cost, considering 5-7 mpg difference between those two and the others can be US$500 or so per year given 15,000 miles per year. - Just noticed your driving profile of 80% urban. You need to do the math based on the urban cycle figures for these models. This difference could be much larger than I estimated!
Another big cost is depreciation. Decide how long you intend to keep the car, then add that number of years to the models/years you are looking at and compare the book values for that year to get depreciation.
For all models, you can expect 200,000 miles of life, given regular proper servicing. European models, particularly the ones you are comparing, are a rare sight by the roadside. I don't think you should be too concerned about reliability. Some may argue that the US models are less reliable, but I bet this is offset by cheaper parts and labor. I would not recommend looking at this in too much detail, which is a bewildering maze and guaranteed to raise your blood pressure!
I notice these models you compare vary a lot in terms of size. Is this an issue for you? The only one I would avoid if you are claustrophobic is the Audi. I don't like confined spaces and that one bugged me!
That all said, I recommend to look at that illusive thing, ';build quality';. Again, you have to look at OLDER years of the SAME models you are looking at, based on how many years you plan to keep it. How have they stood the test of time? Do they look shabby? Or still factory fresh? When doing this, don't forget the interiors!
Good luck!Would like more info on these cars?
That is a lot of research to do. I suggest you go to www.edmunds.com %26amp; look at each car. Weigh the pros n' cons of each to make an informed decision. The only way to know all those answers to have owned them all. Your not gonna find anyone who has. But ask a specific question about each car one at a time under Car Makes in automotive here in Y!A. I myself have a 2010 Malibu V6. It's been a great car since I got it in Nov 09. I ordered it from Chevy w/ the V6. It's a heavy car, but the standard 4 cylinder does an adequate job. But for real hwy cruising the V6 is preferred. The Malibu is currently on Consumer Reports recommended list. As far as repairs go, dealers will always be the highest. But a small town garage will do fine for general repairs (tires, brakes, oil changes). You can save money there by shopping around. Prices vary widely based on where you live. Rural vs. city makes a huge diff right there. Cars like your Audi, VW, %26amp; Volvo that have turbo engines, just about always require high octane fuel. As if the price of gas wasn't bad enough you have to buy the expensive stuff to enjoy the car. That would turn me off right there. The rest of them do fine on reg gas. I would take a pass on the Dodge unless you like full sized cars. It's a bit of a challenge trying to park a large car unless you are used to it. So it's gonna be a close tie between the rest. I guess it will come down to the better deal and condition of the car. Good luck!
Am I a manly man, or a more feminine man.?
I'm a guy and im getting a little irritated on some things .
Here are a few guy traits that i dont have:
-Don't watch sports 24/7
-Don't know how to fix cars, change oil, change tires, basically i know nothing about cars other than putting gas and driving it
-The ';I wear whats there'; attitude, i always look in the mirror to see if the clothes look good
-Not good with directions
-Not as aggressive, cocky, arrogant
-Not tall or dark
-Not the leader type
-Cant handle as much alcohol or beer as a lot of other guys can
-Have to wash my hands after eating greasy *** chips, can just wipe it on my clothes or a tissue, gotta wash my hands
-Dont have a lot of chest hair
-I grow very straight hair, not curly or wavy
Here are a few guy traits that i do have
-Muscular
-Always willing to help people anytime, anywhere.. especially tough jobs
-Can make my girlfriend feel like a real queen
-I can read peoples emotions
-I dont show emotions
-I eat like a beast...literally
-Very humble, but very strong
-I get through things and move on
-I got a great sense of humor
-VERY protective
-Love action movies especially war movies
-Love video games (well world of warcraft lol)
-I think outside the box
as you see i am very self conscious about how manly i am, it sucks because my gf actually possesses some manly traits that i dont have like she watches sports, shes good with directions, she doesnt care about dirt on her hands lol.
i just wanted to know if its common for a guy to posses some feminine traits, because if you saw me in real life you wouldnt think i had them, youd think.... omg he looks like a pitbull...then you talk to me and see that im the nicest person youd ever met.
I just wanted to know if im considered to be more manly or a man with feminine features.Am I a manly man, or a more feminine man.?
Ok, Let's take a look here
-Don't watch sports 24/7
%26gt; Who says you have to? I don't watch sports.
-Don't know how to fix cars, change oil, change tires, basically i know nothing about cars other than putting gas and driving it
%26gt; I know enough to change oil, tires, and some basic fundmentals but I was never a ';grease-monkey'; either. You should learn some basic car skills though...it will save you money on your vehicle.
-The ';I wear whats there'; attitude, i always look in the mirror to see if the clothes look good
%26gt; Clothes make the man, bud. There's nothing wrong with having a couple of outfits that will turn a woman's head (in a good way, that is)
-Not good with directions.
%26gt; Neither am I, I tell my friends to tell me landmarks. Besides, I DO ask for directions. I actually got a phone number that way from a girl working at the gas station once. As long as you get there who cares. Get a GPS if you need to.
-Not as aggressive, cocky, arrogant
%26gt;I'm not cocky or arrogant...but I'm confident when I need to be. I'm sure of myself in the areas that I know I have some solid knowledge or expertise in. Stick to what you know.
-Not tall or dark
-%26gt;I'm 5'10 (I'm the shortest out of all my friends) and I'm lighter skinned.
-Not the leader type
%26gt;Being a follower is ok, but there are times when you need to take charge in the decision making.
-Cant handle as much alcohol or beer as a lot of other guys can.
%26gt;So what? Who says you have to drink? One of my buds doesn't drink and the girls really respect him for it....a lot actually.
-Have to wash my hands after eating greasy *** chips, can just wipe it on my clothes or a tissue, gotta wash my hands
%26gt; A little quirky but Cleanliness is next to Godliness.'
-Dont have a lot of chest hair
%26gt;LOL, who cares? Sports athletes, swimmers, cyclists, UFC fighters dont' have chest hair either.
-I grow very straight hair, not curly or wavy
%26gt;Not sure what that has to do with the manly thing.
Buddy, I don't think you have anything to worry about. It's great that you make your gf feel like a queen. Women love that. Also reading people's emotions isn't what I would call a manly trait..I'd call it insightful.
Being a man, IMHO, is owning up to responsibility and being accountable for what you do and say. This is actually a lot harder than it sounds. Just because you're not into sports or cars just means you're not like everyone else.
Hell, I'm into theater and that's not necesarily manly. I think that you just need a bit of confidence in a few areas.
Also why should you be good with directions when you gf is? That means you can drive and she can navigate. I think you're labelling certain traits to be masculine and feminine based on society's views. Do what you want to do and stand behind your convictions.Am I a manly man, or a more feminine man.?
I swear on my life if you didn't say ';word of warcraft'; , I would have thought you were my fiance. He's EXACTLY how you described and that's VERY ATTRACTIVE. I fell for him because he's not your average guy, he's so much better.
So, be proud! You're the type who are hard to find!
well half the ';traits'; you don;t have aren;t traits at all. Like big deal if you can;t drink that much, it just shows you don;t waste your life on alcohol lol. If you look at me, I'm completely horrible with directions, I like to see if I look good in the clothes I wear, and I do show emotion, and I hate video games, but my friends consider me to be a ';tank'; lol. But I'm also very tall, very muscular, play high level of hockey, willing to work hard, work out a lot, very funny, and I'm not afraid to be a leader. Everything balances out lol. You seem like a normal guy to me, don;t worry about it.
Here are a few guy traits that i dont have:
-Don't watch sports 24/7
-Don't know how to fix cars, change oil, change tires, basically i know nothing about cars other than putting gas and driving it
-The ';I wear whats there'; attitude, i always look in the mirror to see if the clothes look good
-Not good with directions
-Not as aggressive, cocky, arrogant
-Not tall or dark
-Not the leader type
-Cant handle as much alcohol or beer as a lot of other guys can
-Have to wash my hands after eating greasy *** chips, can just wipe it on my clothes or a tissue, gotta wash my hands
-Dont have a lot of chest hair
-I grow very straight hair, not curly or wavy
Here are a few guy traits that i do have
-Muscular
-Always willing to help people anytime, anywhere.. especially tough jobs
-Can make my girlfriend feel like a real queen
-I can read peoples emotions
-I dont show emotions
-I eat like a beast...literally
-Very humble, but very strong
-I get through things and move on
-I got a great sense of humor
-VERY protective
-Love action movies especially war movies
-Love video games (well world of warcraft lol)
-I think outside the box
as you see i am very self conscious about how manly i am, it sucks because my gf actually possesses some manly traits that i dont have like she watches sports, shes good with directions, she doesnt care about dirt on her hands lol.
i just wanted to know if its common for a guy to posses some feminine traits, because if you saw me in real life you wouldnt think i had them, youd think.... omg he looks like a pitbull...then you talk to me and see that im the nicest person youd ever met.
I just wanted to know if im considered to be more manly or a man with feminine features.Am I a manly man, or a more feminine man.?
Ok, Let's take a look here
-Don't watch sports 24/7
%26gt; Who says you have to? I don't watch sports.
-Don't know how to fix cars, change oil, change tires, basically i know nothing about cars other than putting gas and driving it
%26gt; I know enough to change oil, tires, and some basic fundmentals but I was never a ';grease-monkey'; either. You should learn some basic car skills though...it will save you money on your vehicle.
-The ';I wear whats there'; attitude, i always look in the mirror to see if the clothes look good
%26gt; Clothes make the man, bud. There's nothing wrong with having a couple of outfits that will turn a woman's head (in a good way, that is)
-Not good with directions.
%26gt; Neither am I, I tell my friends to tell me landmarks. Besides, I DO ask for directions. I actually got a phone number that way from a girl working at the gas station once. As long as you get there who cares. Get a GPS if you need to.
-Not as aggressive, cocky, arrogant
%26gt;I'm not cocky or arrogant...but I'm confident when I need to be. I'm sure of myself in the areas that I know I have some solid knowledge or expertise in. Stick to what you know.
-Not tall or dark
-%26gt;I'm 5'10 (I'm the shortest out of all my friends) and I'm lighter skinned.
-Not the leader type
%26gt;Being a follower is ok, but there are times when you need to take charge in the decision making.
-Cant handle as much alcohol or beer as a lot of other guys can.
%26gt;So what? Who says you have to drink? One of my buds doesn't drink and the girls really respect him for it....a lot actually.
-Have to wash my hands after eating greasy *** chips, can just wipe it on my clothes or a tissue, gotta wash my hands
%26gt; A little quirky but Cleanliness is next to Godliness.'
-Dont have a lot of chest hair
%26gt;LOL, who cares? Sports athletes, swimmers, cyclists, UFC fighters dont' have chest hair either.
-I grow very straight hair, not curly or wavy
%26gt;Not sure what that has to do with the manly thing.
Buddy, I don't think you have anything to worry about. It's great that you make your gf feel like a queen. Women love that. Also reading people's emotions isn't what I would call a manly trait..I'd call it insightful.
Being a man, IMHO, is owning up to responsibility and being accountable for what you do and say. This is actually a lot harder than it sounds. Just because you're not into sports or cars just means you're not like everyone else.
Hell, I'm into theater and that's not necesarily manly. I think that you just need a bit of confidence in a few areas.
Also why should you be good with directions when you gf is? That means you can drive and she can navigate. I think you're labelling certain traits to be masculine and feminine based on society's views. Do what you want to do and stand behind your convictions.Am I a manly man, or a more feminine man.?
I swear on my life if you didn't say ';word of warcraft'; , I would have thought you were my fiance. He's EXACTLY how you described and that's VERY ATTRACTIVE. I fell for him because he's not your average guy, he's so much better.
So, be proud! You're the type who are hard to find!
well half the ';traits'; you don;t have aren;t traits at all. Like big deal if you can;t drink that much, it just shows you don;t waste your life on alcohol lol. If you look at me, I'm completely horrible with directions, I like to see if I look good in the clothes I wear, and I do show emotion, and I hate video games, but my friends consider me to be a ';tank'; lol. But I'm also very tall, very muscular, play high level of hockey, willing to work hard, work out a lot, very funny, and I'm not afraid to be a leader. Everything balances out lol. You seem like a normal guy to me, don;t worry about it.
1997 Toyota Camry 144000 Miles (Asking Price 3500 USD firm)?
Hi All,
I am planning to buy my second car and I got 2 options with me and I am confused that which one I should opt.
1. 1997 Toyota Camry LE 144K miles - 3500 USD - Private Party. As per the private party, I may need to change tires..
What do you think, how many miles more I can drive this car??
2. 2000 Buick LeSabre 77K miles - 5000 USD - Dealer
Everything works fine, New Tires, clean and leather.
Please suggest, which one I should buy?1997 Toyota Camry 144000 Miles (Asking Price 3500 USD firm)?
$3,500 is a good price for the 1997, but I don't recommend buying a car older than a decade. It just promises headaches and imminent repairs/accidents. Plus, you need to change the tires?
$5,000 for the 2000 is also a good deal. New tires included! It's only 8 years old and has half the miles compared to the 1997. But like you stated, it's an American car. Personally, I would keep looking because they both offer potential issues.1997 Toyota Camry 144000 Miles (Asking Price 3500 USD firm)?
depends what you like they are two totally different cars.
check with kbb.com or edmunds.com
Both are good cars with much life left in them. If it was me I would purchase the one which came down the most on their asking price.
Don't buy the Toyota. Although toyotas are very reliable, it has 144,000 miles on it already. I would buy the 2000, it's newer. Is it a certified used car?
I am planning to buy my second car and I got 2 options with me and I am confused that which one I should opt.
1. 1997 Toyota Camry LE 144K miles - 3500 USD - Private Party. As per the private party, I may need to change tires..
What do you think, how many miles more I can drive this car??
2. 2000 Buick LeSabre 77K miles - 5000 USD - Dealer
Everything works fine, New Tires, clean and leather.
Please suggest, which one I should buy?1997 Toyota Camry 144000 Miles (Asking Price 3500 USD firm)?
$3,500 is a good price for the 1997, but I don't recommend buying a car older than a decade. It just promises headaches and imminent repairs/accidents. Plus, you need to change the tires?
$5,000 for the 2000 is also a good deal. New tires included! It's only 8 years old and has half the miles compared to the 1997. But like you stated, it's an American car. Personally, I would keep looking because they both offer potential issues.1997 Toyota Camry 144000 Miles (Asking Price 3500 USD firm)?
depends what you like they are two totally different cars.
check with kbb.com or edmunds.com
Both are good cars with much life left in them. If it was me I would purchase the one which came down the most on their asking price.
Don't buy the Toyota. Although toyotas are very reliable, it has 144,000 miles on it already. I would buy the 2000, it's newer. Is it a certified used car?
Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
I have Toyota Camry 1998 LE cylinder 4 model with 106K miles which I mostly use for commute to office. Its engine got seized because I forgot to change engine oil in time. Now, what is my optimal solution? I don't want to buy a new reliable car which is going to cost around 20k.
I see two options. Buying similar car / Toyota Carola / Honda Civic with similar mileage and year and selling my broken car though I don't know how much I will get for it with engine not working. However, I changed tires about 8 months ago and changed timing belt and water pump about an year ago.
I guess 2nd option will be to get it repaired. Other than engine problem, I don't have any known issue in this car. In repair also there are two choices: get refurbished engine or get the current engine repaired.
I am not sure which one is optimal solution. Can someone help me taking decision? What should I do? Which option to choose and how much it is going to cost or is there any other alternative?
Thanks.Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
Look at getting a used engine from a salvage yard. It will be much less expensive than a new or rebuilt engine, and will keep your car on the road.
try-http://www.car-part.com/Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
I wouldn't spend much money on another car, cause you'll probably seize that engine too. If you can't be bother will oil changes, get a bicycle.
I see two options. Buying similar car / Toyota Carola / Honda Civic with similar mileage and year and selling my broken car though I don't know how much I will get for it with engine not working. However, I changed tires about 8 months ago and changed timing belt and water pump about an year ago.
I guess 2nd option will be to get it repaired. Other than engine problem, I don't have any known issue in this car. In repair also there are two choices: get refurbished engine or get the current engine repaired.
I am not sure which one is optimal solution. Can someone help me taking decision? What should I do? Which option to choose and how much it is going to cost or is there any other alternative?
Thanks.Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
Look at getting a used engine from a salvage yard. It will be much less expensive than a new or rebuilt engine, and will keep your car on the road.
try-http://www.car-part.com/Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
I wouldn't spend much money on another car, cause you'll probably seize that engine too. If you can't be bother will oil changes, get a bicycle.
Road Wheel on Hardtail MB (Trek 4900)?
I own a Trek 4900 2006 model with disc brakes. Although the current wheels are ideal for mountain biking, I'm starting to enjoy cross country biking a bit more and was wondering if I could buy an extra set of road wheels on ebay or something to swap out when I'm not off roading. Heres a few questions seeking professional advice.
1. How much would it reasonably cost me?
2. Is it difficult to swap tires with disc brakes?
3. Could I do it by myself with the basic tools quickly?
4. Would the heavier MB frame cause the tires to deflate quicker?
5. Would I have to adjust the brakes and gears when I change tires or can I just swap out the wheels and be good to go?
6. Is there really a big difference?
Thanks for any response.Road Wheel on Hardtail MB (Trek 4900)?
I'm not a professional but I maintained my own bikes for the last 15 years so I'll take a shot at it.
1. To get a set of reasonable quality wheels that are setup to accept disc brakes will cost at least $100 for the rims, $25-$50 for each of the discs, and however much you're willing to spend for the sprocket assembly.
2. No. In fact I have found that it is much easier to change wheels with disc brakes than with traditional brakes.
3. You can do it with no tools if the rims have a quick-release nut, otherwise it would only take a couple of adjustable wrenches. Another option is to take rims that don't have the quick-release into a bike shop and they can install it on them for a reasonable cost.
4. The weight of the frame might affect how fast the tires deflate, but the bigger issue would be how much you weigh.
5. No, as long as you have the same size discs and the same number of gears in the back, you can just change wheels and be on your way.
6. There is a HUGE difference between riding on a road with dirt tires and riding on the same road with road tires. It will be significantly easier to use road tires on a road than try to use dirt tires on a road. The question (to me anyways) is whether or not the benefit is worth the price.Road Wheel on Hardtail MB (Trek 4900)?
Road wheels are bigger than MTB wheels-- Typical MTB wheels are 26'; while road wheels are 700mm (more than 1.5 inches bigger in diameter).
I doubt your Trek 4900 MTB frame will have the necessary clearance to fit the bigger road wheels.
What you can do is buy another set of MTB wheels with the brake discs and a cassette compatible with the rear derailleurs, and put the skinniest slick MTB tires you can find on it (they have those down to 1 inch in width).
However, this will not be cheap and it will not give you much improvement in speed on pavement (about 2-3 mph tops) because of the bike's gear ratios and weight.
Buying a road bike would be the simplest solution. That's what I did (I own both an MTB and a road bike).
1st you can't put 700c road wheels on your bike. You need to buy wheels similar to what you have now and run road tires on them. There are many road type tires made for 26'; wheels. You can do this yourself with minimal tools. While I don't know what a reasonable cost to you is, it will be in the $300 - $400 range a least. You will need:
-disc compatible wheels
-a cassette
-tubes and tires
-rim strips
-disc rotors
-quick release skewers (not absolutely needed)
While you will be able to change wheels back and forth easily, sometimes the brakes may not quite line up perfectly - on discs that could be a headache.
I don't think that's possible. Wheels diameters are different, and that will spoil your set up.
What you can do is buy some slicks and replace your nobbies tires with them to make it simpler.
1. How much would it reasonably cost me?
2. Is it difficult to swap tires with disc brakes?
3. Could I do it by myself with the basic tools quickly?
4. Would the heavier MB frame cause the tires to deflate quicker?
5. Would I have to adjust the brakes and gears when I change tires or can I just swap out the wheels and be good to go?
6. Is there really a big difference?
Thanks for any response.Road Wheel on Hardtail MB (Trek 4900)?
I'm not a professional but I maintained my own bikes for the last 15 years so I'll take a shot at it.
1. To get a set of reasonable quality wheels that are setup to accept disc brakes will cost at least $100 for the rims, $25-$50 for each of the discs, and however much you're willing to spend for the sprocket assembly.
2. No. In fact I have found that it is much easier to change wheels with disc brakes than with traditional brakes.
3. You can do it with no tools if the rims have a quick-release nut, otherwise it would only take a couple of adjustable wrenches. Another option is to take rims that don't have the quick-release into a bike shop and they can install it on them for a reasonable cost.
4. The weight of the frame might affect how fast the tires deflate, but the bigger issue would be how much you weigh.
5. No, as long as you have the same size discs and the same number of gears in the back, you can just change wheels and be on your way.
6. There is a HUGE difference between riding on a road with dirt tires and riding on the same road with road tires. It will be significantly easier to use road tires on a road than try to use dirt tires on a road. The question (to me anyways) is whether or not the benefit is worth the price.Road Wheel on Hardtail MB (Trek 4900)?
Road wheels are bigger than MTB wheels-- Typical MTB wheels are 26'; while road wheels are 700mm (more than 1.5 inches bigger in diameter).
I doubt your Trek 4900 MTB frame will have the necessary clearance to fit the bigger road wheels.
What you can do is buy another set of MTB wheels with the brake discs and a cassette compatible with the rear derailleurs, and put the skinniest slick MTB tires you can find on it (they have those down to 1 inch in width).
However, this will not be cheap and it will not give you much improvement in speed on pavement (about 2-3 mph tops) because of the bike's gear ratios and weight.
Buying a road bike would be the simplest solution. That's what I did (I own both an MTB and a road bike).
1st you can't put 700c road wheels on your bike. You need to buy wheels similar to what you have now and run road tires on them. There are many road type tires made for 26'; wheels. You can do this yourself with minimal tools. While I don't know what a reasonable cost to you is, it will be in the $300 - $400 range a least. You will need:
-disc compatible wheels
-a cassette
-tubes and tires
-rim strips
-disc rotors
-quick release skewers (not absolutely needed)
While you will be able to change wheels back and forth easily, sometimes the brakes may not quite line up perfectly - on discs that could be a headache.
I don't think that's possible. Wheels diameters are different, and that will spoil your set up.
What you can do is buy some slicks and replace your nobbies tires with them to make it simpler.
Is it ok to change just one brake rotor?
About a year ago getting my tires changed the mechanic mentioned I need new pads. Sure enough they started to grind soon after. I changed all four front pads. Now less then a year later the grinding is back (was always just on the driver's side). I drive easy, no hard braking or drifting around corners. Is it ok to just change the one rotor? How about the pads? The sales guy also was trying to sell a bunch of extras like cleaner to get the oil off the rotor, replacement grease for the caliper bolts and something else because of the time of year (salt). The rotor box says ';ready to install';, so do I also really need all that other stuff?
In case it matters: 2002 Saturn SL2 front wheel drive %26lt;100K milesIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?
Its fine to do if your broke and only one is giving u the problem but chances are the other isn't far behind. I think your problem is either worn calliper or wheel baring because the problem is only on the 1 side. As for what the sales guy was trying to sell you pretty well bull other than its a good idea to keep the rotor as clean as possible and to keep your calliper bolts or any bolt u might have to take off again with anti seize.
Hope u find this helpfulIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?
Even though it says ready to install, they do ship them with a light oil, and I always spray new rotors down with brake cleaner. As far as replacing one rotor, I would rather not. In hard braking it could cause the car to swerve slightly.
clean all oil off the rotors and grease the bolts to make sure the calipers slide back in forth freely if they dont you will eat brake pad up.
That ';sales guy'; does NOT sound good to me! Run (don't walk) to the door and say goodbye forever. Make sure to try another independent repair shop you might find by searching the below link. That new garage will remove both your rotors (easy to do) and simply turn them done on a lathe and charge you about $30 plus the cost of the new pads for a total cost of $125. Do the complete front brake job the right way, and you'll pay less and be safer driving in the long run.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/
1 get 2nd opinion
2 id rather you get 2 rotors if you can afford it but if poor one is ok ..
3 i can't believe the ****** is trying to nickle and dime you...charge for a smear of grease? and a spray of cleaner PLEASE punch him for me!
i would rather change ';both'; rotors at the same time. and if you plan to replace the brake pads, change both too.
the grinding sound that you feel is probably the cause of a warped rotor... this happens when the rotor gets hot when driving then a splash of water hits the rotor or going straight to the car wash after a long drive.
you don't have to buy those brake cleaners or grease.
the rotors are not that expensive anyway and even the brake pads. the expensive one is the ';brake caliper';... but i don't think that you have a problem with this part.
If you're wearing out one side prematurely, there's a reason. You may have a stuck caliper. The caliper must be free to slide side-to-side on the guide pins as the pads wear. If it's sticking, then you'll likely wear out one pad on that side before the others.If the rotor on the other side still has plenty of metal thickness left, then you could just replace one side. BUT you should have the old rotor ground or machined to remove any 'glaze'- that's when the surface gets polished from wear and heat. If you don't remove the glaze the new rotor will grab better than the old one and cause it to pull to one side. You MUST replace ALL the pads at the same time.
You need to clean and lubricate the guide pins (high-quality bearing grease works fine) and the holes where they slide. There's a small rubber seal that keeps out dirt. If the rubber is broken, dirt and water can get in and cause the caliper to stick. Also, you need to use shims behind the pads and pad silencer goop on the shims. Otherwise you'll end up with brakes that squeal.
if it did it the 2nd time then it,s probably the caliper sticking. you can change just 1 side unless the other rotor is thin then you need to change both rotors to get good braking action. also when you buy rotors the factory puts grease or oil on them to keep them from rusting so before installing them wash them down with brake cleaner.
In case it matters: 2002 Saturn SL2 front wheel drive %26lt;100K milesIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?
Its fine to do if your broke and only one is giving u the problem but chances are the other isn't far behind. I think your problem is either worn calliper or wheel baring because the problem is only on the 1 side. As for what the sales guy was trying to sell you pretty well bull other than its a good idea to keep the rotor as clean as possible and to keep your calliper bolts or any bolt u might have to take off again with anti seize.
Hope u find this helpfulIs it ok to change just one brake rotor?
Even though it says ready to install, they do ship them with a light oil, and I always spray new rotors down with brake cleaner. As far as replacing one rotor, I would rather not. In hard braking it could cause the car to swerve slightly.
clean all oil off the rotors and grease the bolts to make sure the calipers slide back in forth freely if they dont you will eat brake pad up.
That ';sales guy'; does NOT sound good to me! Run (don't walk) to the door and say goodbye forever. Make sure to try another independent repair shop you might find by searching the below link. That new garage will remove both your rotors (easy to do) and simply turn them done on a lathe and charge you about $30 plus the cost of the new pads for a total cost of $125. Do the complete front brake job the right way, and you'll pay less and be safer driving in the long run.
http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/
1 get 2nd opinion
2 id rather you get 2 rotors if you can afford it but if poor one is ok ..
3 i can't believe the ****** is trying to nickle and dime you...charge for a smear of grease? and a spray of cleaner PLEASE punch him for me!
i would rather change ';both'; rotors at the same time. and if you plan to replace the brake pads, change both too.
the grinding sound that you feel is probably the cause of a warped rotor... this happens when the rotor gets hot when driving then a splash of water hits the rotor or going straight to the car wash after a long drive.
you don't have to buy those brake cleaners or grease.
the rotors are not that expensive anyway and even the brake pads. the expensive one is the ';brake caliper';... but i don't think that you have a problem with this part.
If you're wearing out one side prematurely, there's a reason. You may have a stuck caliper. The caliper must be free to slide side-to-side on the guide pins as the pads wear. If it's sticking, then you'll likely wear out one pad on that side before the others.If the rotor on the other side still has plenty of metal thickness left, then you could just replace one side. BUT you should have the old rotor ground or machined to remove any 'glaze'- that's when the surface gets polished from wear and heat. If you don't remove the glaze the new rotor will grab better than the old one and cause it to pull to one side. You MUST replace ALL the pads at the same time.
You need to clean and lubricate the guide pins (high-quality bearing grease works fine) and the holes where they slide. There's a small rubber seal that keeps out dirt. If the rubber is broken, dirt and water can get in and cause the caliper to stick. Also, you need to use shims behind the pads and pad silencer goop on the shims. Otherwise you'll end up with brakes that squeal.
if it did it the 2nd time then it,s probably the caliper sticking. you can change just 1 side unless the other rotor is thin then you need to change both rotors to get good braking action. also when you buy rotors the factory puts grease or oil on them to keep them from rusting so before installing them wash them down with brake cleaner.
Got some wheel questions?
i have a cannondale f900 CAD2. its a hard tail with the lock out front shock. i do a lot of raod riding as well as some dirt. i am riding on shimano deore 26 inch rims. i change between them some 1.25 slicks and 2.25 mtb tires depending on what I'm riding. i wanted to buy some 27 inch road rims to not have to keep changing tires before rides. my brakes do not accommodate the 700c rims. i was wondering how much smaller the 27 is from the 700, where to buy some cheap rims, what to look for and thoughts on this idea Got some wheel questions?
27'; wheels are almost obsolete and are LARGER in diameter than 700C.
I suggest that you buy a set of 26'; MTB wheels with narrow rims and put the smallest tire you can on them.Got some wheel questions?
not much. you'd be better with a spare set of 26'; rims with a set of high psi slicks mounted on them..
If you do a lot of road riding I would get a road bike, they are a lot more efficient and fun.
Putting rims that are a different size than what the bike was set up for can be a challenge. Brakes are just the first potential stumbling point. In your shoes, I would get another set of 26 inch mtb rims, one set for the road and the other set for the trails. That will make changeover much quicker, until you can get a road bike.
HTHyour name mean to you
27'; wheels are almost obsolete and are LARGER in diameter than 700C.
I suggest that you buy a set of 26'; MTB wheels with narrow rims and put the smallest tire you can on them.Got some wheel questions?
not much. you'd be better with a spare set of 26'; rims with a set of high psi slicks mounted on them..
If you do a lot of road riding I would get a road bike, they are a lot more efficient and fun.
Putting rims that are a different size than what the bike was set up for can be a challenge. Brakes are just the first potential stumbling point. In your shoes, I would get another set of 26 inch mtb rims, one set for the road and the other set for the trails. That will make changeover much quicker, until you can get a road bike.
HTH
Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
i have a 1998 toyota camry. i dont know much about cars and rarely get bigger work done on my car since it hasn't caused me many problems - mainly brakes, tires, and oil changes. i just came from the deadlership (i got an oil change, tire rotation, and new brake pads/rotor reface) and they told me my car:
- has a fluid leak
- has a front engine seals leak
- needs a new timing belt
- has a rear main seal leak
im pretty clueless about cars and always feel like im getting ripped off! how serious are these issues, which are most important to address first, and what are resonable costs for these repairs? about a year ago i was informed of some of these issues and they haven't cause any problems yet. i dont drive that much -- about 50 miles per week with the occasional road trip a few times a year. the car is getting old and i anticipate getting a new one in the next year or so, so i dont want to spend a lot on maintenance that's not ABSOLUTELY necessary to the life of the car....i just don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road! thanks for your advice ahead of time.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
peaches, I had similar problems with my Chevrolet Equinox and last month. Get a free auto warranty quote and see if you can get the policy before you need to get your car fixed. http://www.simpleautoquotes.com/Auto-Warranty.htmlCar repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
me and my family own a 1998 toyota camry as well. as of now it is in the shop for an oil pump leak and a broken timing belt. the mechanic told me that he charges $300 for the timing belt replacement. when they replace the belt the front seal is right there so the cost of the seal is all that should apply. as far as the rear seal, the transmission and torque converter must be removed. not sure of the cost on the rear seal. the timing belts should be replaced at or around 90,000 miles. it has been a great car and have owned it for 5 years now and this is the biggest problem to date. we love the car. the 4 cylinder engine is known to go for 300,000 miles beofre a major overhaul is required.
The timing belt would be the most important. To replace the front main seal would require removing the timing belt anyway. When replacing the front main seal, the rear needs to be changed at the same time to prevent doing the same labor on the car again (removing the oil pan). The fluid leak can be fixed any time and has nothing to do with the others.
My advice, no more than you drive, keep oil and fluid in it and keep driving for a year. If you are really concerned about being stranded, just change the timing belt.
well the dealer isn't selling cars they need your service to keep it going. the timing chain is only recommended at the miles set to change it,in most cases these out last most cars..if your auto isn't leaking alot i would just leave it. use slick 50 or some motor oil to help seal seals
- has a fluid leak
- has a front engine seals leak
- needs a new timing belt
- has a rear main seal leak
im pretty clueless about cars and always feel like im getting ripped off! how serious are these issues, which are most important to address first, and what are resonable costs for these repairs? about a year ago i was informed of some of these issues and they haven't cause any problems yet. i dont drive that much -- about 50 miles per week with the occasional road trip a few times a year. the car is getting old and i anticipate getting a new one in the next year or so, so i dont want to spend a lot on maintenance that's not ABSOLUTELY necessary to the life of the car....i just don't want to end up stranded on the side of the road! thanks for your advice ahead of time.Car repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
peaches, I had similar problems with my Chevrolet Equinox and last month. Get a free auto warranty quote and see if you can get the policy before you need to get your car fixed. http://www.simpleautoquotes.com/Auto-Warranty.htmlCar repair: what is a good cost to repair a front engine seal leak, timing belt replacement, rear seal leak?
me and my family own a 1998 toyota camry as well. as of now it is in the shop for an oil pump leak and a broken timing belt. the mechanic told me that he charges $300 for the timing belt replacement. when they replace the belt the front seal is right there so the cost of the seal is all that should apply. as far as the rear seal, the transmission and torque converter must be removed. not sure of the cost on the rear seal. the timing belts should be replaced at or around 90,000 miles. it has been a great car and have owned it for 5 years now and this is the biggest problem to date. we love the car. the 4 cylinder engine is known to go for 300,000 miles beofre a major overhaul is required.
The timing belt would be the most important. To replace the front main seal would require removing the timing belt anyway. When replacing the front main seal, the rear needs to be changed at the same time to prevent doing the same labor on the car again (removing the oil pan). The fluid leak can be fixed any time and has nothing to do with the others.
My advice, no more than you drive, keep oil and fluid in it and keep driving for a year. If you are really concerned about being stranded, just change the timing belt.
well the dealer isn't selling cars they need your service to keep it going. the timing chain is only recommended at the miles set to change it,in most cases these out last most cars..if your auto isn't leaking alot i would just leave it. use slick 50 or some motor oil to help seal seals
Question for anyone who has worked in a auto shop (midas, les schwab, etc.)?
hey im thinking about getting a job at precision auto tune and i have absolutely no idea how to do anything that they do (oil change, tire change, or anything else). if i go there will they teach me everything and is it easyQuestion for anyone who has worked in a auto shop (midas, les schwab, etc.)?
LOLLOLLOL-IS IT EASY?ive been doing this job for over 35 years and no its not easy.no they will not teach you everything you need to know.do you have any tools?most techs will not loan their tools out even to other employees.my tools are to make me money not you.i have a rule in my shop,if you use something of mine twice ok,if you use it the third time you need it so buy it.you are going to spend allot of money on tools.good luck.do you have any knowledge of cars and how they work?have you ever changed your own oil?ever changed your flat tire?if the answer is no,i hope you have a patient person to teach you.
LOLLOLLOL-IS IT EASY?ive been doing this job for over 35 years and no its not easy.no they will not teach you everything you need to know.do you have any tools?most techs will not loan their tools out even to other employees.my tools are to make me money not you.i have a rule in my shop,if you use something of mine twice ok,if you use it the third time you need it so buy it.you are going to spend allot of money on tools.good luck.do you have any knowledge of cars and how they work?have you ever changed your own oil?ever changed your flat tire?if the answer is no,i hope you have a patient person to teach you.
I want to build my first car; is it possible?
Okay, so Im a 15 year old girl, and I want to build my first car. I have basic, knowledge on engines, and tires. ( I.e., how to change oil, change tires , and a couple of other miniscule things.) but thats it.
I found a great car the other day at a junk yard. No rust, just typical wear and tear for cars that are out there.
I do have a uncle whom, could help me occasionally along with my bestfriends brother who works on cars. but for the most part it would only be me.
So I want to know, if it's possible for me to learn to build one; and to actually build it? and just how much would it be? Average Cost, with a simplistic engine, and paint job. ( The model is a classic ford)
Please and ThankYou :]I want to build my first car; is it possible?
Go for it girl!! Just take the word ';can't'; out of your mind, you can do anything you want to. Everybody started at the same place your at. Just don't let it overwhelm you. I's not rocket science. If you plan to do the labor yourself and with the help of friends that will save you a ton of money. At 15 I would suppose you want to do this on the cheap and use it as a learning curve. First of all, mark everything you take off the car and take as many digital pics as you need. Don't expect to remember where everything goes and as a first timer it's better to be sure where it goes and how. If something has to be taken out a certain way, remember that or write it down so you will remember the little trick of how you got it out, it'll take the same trick to get it back in. If there isn't any rusting then you won't have much body work to do. Has the car been wrecked? Does it run, how well? Does the transmission shift? Wheels and tires, what shape? Why is it in a junk yard? That would be my first question.You might want to get your uncle to look at the car since from what you said he has some experience with cars. Go on the internet and order yourself a Summitt catalog, a Speedway catalog and Jegs, they are all free. Find a Shop Manual for the specific car you buy, Chiltons is the best. There are plenty of forums on the internet where yoou can get information. I wish I knew what kind of car it was, that would be a big help. If the engine is in rough shape don't pay too much for the car, remember you will have to get an engine from a junk yard and rebuild it or orger a crate engine which you can get basic OEM around 1500. All I want to do is let you know that you CAN do it. Just use all the resources you need to get information. Everything you know now you had to learn, Right? Then what makes you think you can't do this? Cause your a girl? That's an excuse not a reason. I don't know If you can contact me again but I sure would like to keep up with your build. I'm a old rodder and it's just great to see oug people taking an interest in the hobby. I have a 1966 Chevrolet, that's 43 years old. Pretty old huh? No fuel injection, no emission controls and a very basic wiring system. Just love the old cars, you can work on them. Get into fuel injection and these engines that run by computers and I'm done. I wish you the best of luck, and never ever forget, You Can do it.!!I want to build my first car; is it possible?
about $8,000 because the enginge is really expensive and the paint
People often confuse possible and probable. Almost anything is possible, probability depends on a number of factors. What kind of shape is the car in? If its mechanically sound, great, but it takes more than shade-tree knowledge to keep an older car running. I say older because you called it a classic. Also what do you mean by ';build';? Returning the car to the road is one thing, restoring it is another. Its expensive and takes time, but don't let your gender stand in your way. Take auto classes at school. Sometimes they let you bring your own car and work on it, class project style. Got a lot of free work done on my Chevelle that way. Good luck.
I found a great car the other day at a junk yard. No rust, just typical wear and tear for cars that are out there.
I do have a uncle whom, could help me occasionally along with my bestfriends brother who works on cars. but for the most part it would only be me.
So I want to know, if it's possible for me to learn to build one; and to actually build it? and just how much would it be? Average Cost, with a simplistic engine, and paint job. ( The model is a classic ford)
Please and ThankYou :]I want to build my first car; is it possible?
Go for it girl!! Just take the word ';can't'; out of your mind, you can do anything you want to. Everybody started at the same place your at. Just don't let it overwhelm you. I's not rocket science. If you plan to do the labor yourself and with the help of friends that will save you a ton of money. At 15 I would suppose you want to do this on the cheap and use it as a learning curve. First of all, mark everything you take off the car and take as many digital pics as you need. Don't expect to remember where everything goes and as a first timer it's better to be sure where it goes and how. If something has to be taken out a certain way, remember that or write it down so you will remember the little trick of how you got it out, it'll take the same trick to get it back in. If there isn't any rusting then you won't have much body work to do. Has the car been wrecked? Does it run, how well? Does the transmission shift? Wheels and tires, what shape? Why is it in a junk yard? That would be my first question.You might want to get your uncle to look at the car since from what you said he has some experience with cars. Go on the internet and order yourself a Summitt catalog, a Speedway catalog and Jegs, they are all free. Find a Shop Manual for the specific car you buy, Chiltons is the best. There are plenty of forums on the internet where yoou can get information. I wish I knew what kind of car it was, that would be a big help. If the engine is in rough shape don't pay too much for the car, remember you will have to get an engine from a junk yard and rebuild it or orger a crate engine which you can get basic OEM around 1500. All I want to do is let you know that you CAN do it. Just use all the resources you need to get information. Everything you know now you had to learn, Right? Then what makes you think you can't do this? Cause your a girl? That's an excuse not a reason. I don't know If you can contact me again but I sure would like to keep up with your build. I'm a old rodder and it's just great to see oug people taking an interest in the hobby. I have a 1966 Chevrolet, that's 43 years old. Pretty old huh? No fuel injection, no emission controls and a very basic wiring system. Just love the old cars, you can work on them. Get into fuel injection and these engines that run by computers and I'm done. I wish you the best of luck, and never ever forget, You Can do it.!!I want to build my first car; is it possible?
about $8,000 because the enginge is really expensive and the paint
People often confuse possible and probable. Almost anything is possible, probability depends on a number of factors. What kind of shape is the car in? If its mechanically sound, great, but it takes more than shade-tree knowledge to keep an older car running. I say older because you called it a classic. Also what do you mean by ';build';? Returning the car to the road is one thing, restoring it is another. Its expensive and takes time, but don't let your gender stand in your way. Take auto classes at school. Sometimes they let you bring your own car and work on it, class project style. Got a lot of free work done on my Chevelle that way. Good luck.
Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
Hi all...any advice on where I can take a course to fix my own car...no matter what the problem. Brakes, check engine light is on, rotors, changing tires...all of that stuff?
Do I have to take a course at a technical college or something to become a mechanic? OR can I just go to the local community college and get a quick run-through about how to repair automobiles? I do know how to do the simple stuff like, change a tire, install/remove a battery, and change the wipers...that's elementary stuff. Where can I learn how to accomplish the difficult tasks?Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
yeah, wyo tech was a good start but still quite incomplete, your local community collage is a good place to start.Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
Firstly you can go on the internet and look for step by step instructions on how to fix more difficult projects. Look for videos, pics, documents, ect. There are schools you can search for known as trade schools where they teach you about automobile repairs. It's not going to be a ';quick run-through'; but it will be worth it if you dont want to get ripped off anymore.
go to WYOTECH its 9months long and its freakin awsome
Do I have to take a course at a technical college or something to become a mechanic? OR can I just go to the local community college and get a quick run-through about how to repair automobiles? I do know how to do the simple stuff like, change a tire, install/remove a battery, and change the wipers...that's elementary stuff. Where can I learn how to accomplish the difficult tasks?Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
yeah, wyo tech was a good start but still quite incomplete, your local community collage is a good place to start.Mechanic ripped me off! Where can I take a course to learn how to fix my own car?
Firstly you can go on the internet and look for step by step instructions on how to fix more difficult projects. Look for videos, pics, documents, ect. There are schools you can search for known as trade schools where they teach you about automobile repairs. It's not going to be a ';quick run-through'; but it will be worth it if you dont want to get ripped off anymore.
go to WYOTECH its 9months long and its freakin awsome
Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
Hi, I went to my car dealership today to get oil change %26amp; tire inspection and they said I need new brake pads, both front and rear (5mm left? how bad is that? they said it's fine now but I should get it at my next maintenence service)
I said why, I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
Is it true that pads,rotors,calipers ';must'; be done simultaneously? Is it the fact that I only did rotors/calipers that caused my brake pads worn out so quick?
They're saying I'll need about $800 to get all three done (along with some other little stuff to make my brakes fine) Is this reasonable?
I understand dealership might rob you like crazy sometimes and it's not the best place to go but I kind of like this particular location dealership they've been pretty honest according to my past experience. Even today, I told them to let me know if I need to get new tires and they said it's perfectly fine even though I have over 52000 mile on it and never replaced any one before (is this normal? seems like they last forever! I thought you replace it every two year or so...)
I also asked to get tire rotation but they said it's not needed at this point. even though I got it at pretty much all my oil change services (every 5000 mile)?
I drive Scion tc 2006, any feedback would be greatly appreciated~
Thanks all for reading this super long question ;)Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
%26gt; I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
You can replace the brakes FEW times before resurfacing the rotors (I do this all the time). But most of the time, if you are going to resurface the rotor, they always replace the brakes. That way the NEW rotor surface last longer.
====
All this is moot. Brakes jobs are VERY standard. There's NO reason to do them at the dealership. Go to ANY garage or brake shop. Even a rank 1st year mechanic can do brakes.
That was the FIRST thing I learned to do.
====
Also since the rotors were resurfaced before you PROBABLY don't need to do it again. The dealers are FAMOUS for OVER estimating the problem. They say that they want to COMPLETELY fix a problem (yeah - at your cost !!!! ).
Good luck.......Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
You do NOT have to do all three simultaneously, in fact its a waste of money to do so.
Calipers should never go bad and therefore never need to be replaced.
Rotors should only need to be turned if you warped them, either from overheating the brakes or going too long with worn out pads.
Brake pads go a couple years if not abused so you probably dont need them yet. In addition, you change the rear brake pads/shoes only once every other time you change the front ones.
Always bleed the brakes after all services, and thats the only ';other little stuff'; involved. It should only cost about $20.
$800 is quite ridiculous
if the rotors are not scored then just change the pads calipers only need doing if they leak oil brake pads replace at 1.0mm you may have someone who can help you change your brake pads / pads must be replaced in pairs eg. both front pads , both rear pads
$800 for a brake job is way too much.
I never go to the ';stealership'; unless I need parts that I can't get from anywhere else.
You don't need to replace pads and rotors simultaneously. I've never heard of anyone resurfacing calipers.
The pads will ware down faster than the rotors. As long as the rotors aren't cracked, warped, or damaged, there really isn't any reason to replace them. (The price difference between resurfacing and buying new rotors are very minimal, so just buy new rotors)
Once you hear a squeaking noise when you apply the brakes, that's when you'll know you need to get new brake pads. (There's a metal bar that comes in contact with the rotor which causes the noise)
Oil changes should be done every 3 months or 3000 - 5000 miles, or which ever comes first.
Pads need to be replaced. Rotors can be replaced or machined(if they're not too thin). The mechanic can measure it. The calipers just need to be greased, but they really shouldn't charge you much for that if they're changing the pads already. Afterward, they should bleed or flush you brake fluids depending how old it is. The rotors should be good for 2 or 3 sets of pads before replacing. I don't generally have my rotors machine between pad changes, but you can check with your fingers to see if there are any deep grooves.
It's not a difficult job so I recommend you look into aftermarket parts and another shop to do the job. You probably just need the front brakes changed and bleed all 4 brakes. I've used Napa rotors and they work fine for about 1/4 the cost of factory rotors.
if the rotors were replaced so should have the pads been replaced you never replace rotors with out replacing pads and yes calipers go bad all the time especially dodges ive replaced more stuck dodge calipers than any other brand and if the plenomic piston sticks yes it is very possible that it could/would ruin both rotor and pads but on the other hand its very common to replace just pads so if its 2006 model wouldn't caliper be a warranty issue no i wouldnt pay overpriced dealership pricesbut on the other hand i would expect brakes to last more than a year
hope this helps
$800..... NO they are LYING to you... you never have to change the calipers.... new pads wont be much and the rotors shouldne be much either if you are replacing them, if you replace all 4 rotors and new pads it shouldnt be over $300....
By the book every time you replace brake pads you should resurface or change your brake rotors. If the caliper's aren't bad (as in not seized, leaking and working fine) then they don't need to be replaced but the can and DO go bad. Can you change pads but not resurface your rotors? Yes but they will not perform as well or as long as they would if you did resurface or replace. Remember these are brakes not spark plugs they save your life all day long, they are worth throwing a little extra money at, it's your life and others that rely on it. Plus if there tearing apart the brakes already and you have the money, then it's a very good idea to have them replace the calipers because you will need to one day and you will know you need to, when you press on the brakes and they don't work (worst scenario) or just start to leak. And as for the rotors being under limit in thickness yes that is bad... very bad. That means they are too thin to cool themselves under normal operation, And again these are brakes not spark plugs they are worth the money!black spot on skin make a line invisible
I said why, I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
Is it true that pads,rotors,calipers ';must'; be done simultaneously? Is it the fact that I only did rotors/calipers that caused my brake pads worn out so quick?
They're saying I'll need about $800 to get all three done (along with some other little stuff to make my brakes fine) Is this reasonable?
I understand dealership might rob you like crazy sometimes and it's not the best place to go but I kind of like this particular location dealership they've been pretty honest according to my past experience. Even today, I told them to let me know if I need to get new tires and they said it's perfectly fine even though I have over 52000 mile on it and never replaced any one before (is this normal? seems like they last forever! I thought you replace it every two year or so...)
I also asked to get tire rotation but they said it's not needed at this point. even though I got it at pretty much all my oil change services (every 5000 mile)?
I drive Scion tc 2006, any feedback would be greatly appreciated~
Thanks all for reading this super long question ;)Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
%26gt; I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
You can replace the brakes FEW times before resurfacing the rotors (I do this all the time). But most of the time, if you are going to resurface the rotor, they always replace the brakes. That way the NEW rotor surface last longer.
====
All this is moot. Brakes jobs are VERY standard. There's NO reason to do them at the dealership. Go to ANY garage or brake shop. Even a rank 1st year mechanic can do brakes.
That was the FIRST thing I learned to do.
====
Also since the rotors were resurfaced before you PROBABLY don't need to do it again. The dealers are FAMOUS for OVER estimating the problem. They say that they want to COMPLETELY fix a problem (yeah - at your cost !!!! ).
Good luck.......Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
You do NOT have to do all three simultaneously, in fact its a waste of money to do so.
Calipers should never go bad and therefore never need to be replaced.
Rotors should only need to be turned if you warped them, either from overheating the brakes or going too long with worn out pads.
Brake pads go a couple years if not abused so you probably dont need them yet. In addition, you change the rear brake pads/shoes only once every other time you change the front ones.
Always bleed the brakes after all services, and thats the only ';other little stuff'; involved. It should only cost about $20.
$800 is quite ridiculous
if the rotors are not scored then just change the pads calipers only need doing if they leak oil brake pads replace at 1.0mm you may have someone who can help you change your brake pads / pads must be replaced in pairs eg. both front pads , both rear pads
$800 for a brake job is way too much.
I never go to the ';stealership'; unless I need parts that I can't get from anywhere else.
You don't need to replace pads and rotors simultaneously. I've never heard of anyone resurfacing calipers.
The pads will ware down faster than the rotors. As long as the rotors aren't cracked, warped, or damaged, there really isn't any reason to replace them. (The price difference between resurfacing and buying new rotors are very minimal, so just buy new rotors)
Once you hear a squeaking noise when you apply the brakes, that's when you'll know you need to get new brake pads. (There's a metal bar that comes in contact with the rotor which causes the noise)
Oil changes should be done every 3 months or 3000 - 5000 miles, or which ever comes first.
Pads need to be replaced. Rotors can be replaced or machined(if they're not too thin). The mechanic can measure it. The calipers just need to be greased, but they really shouldn't charge you much for that if they're changing the pads already. Afterward, they should bleed or flush you brake fluids depending how old it is. The rotors should be good for 2 or 3 sets of pads before replacing. I don't generally have my rotors machine between pad changes, but you can check with your fingers to see if there are any deep grooves.
It's not a difficult job so I recommend you look into aftermarket parts and another shop to do the job. You probably just need the front brakes changed and bleed all 4 brakes. I've used Napa rotors and they work fine for about 1/4 the cost of factory rotors.
if the rotors were replaced so should have the pads been replaced you never replace rotors with out replacing pads and yes calipers go bad all the time especially dodges ive replaced more stuck dodge calipers than any other brand and if the plenomic piston sticks yes it is very possible that it could/would ruin both rotor and pads but on the other hand its very common to replace just pads so if its 2006 model wouldn't caliper be a warranty issue no i wouldnt pay overpriced dealership pricesbut on the other hand i would expect brakes to last more than a year
hope this helps
$800..... NO they are LYING to you... you never have to change the calipers.... new pads wont be much and the rotors shouldne be much either if you are replacing them, if you replace all 4 rotors and new pads it shouldnt be over $300....
By the book every time you replace brake pads you should resurface or change your brake rotors. If the caliper's aren't bad (as in not seized, leaking and working fine) then they don't need to be replaced but the can and DO go bad. Can you change pads but not resurface your rotors? Yes but they will not perform as well or as long as they would if you did resurface or replace. Remember these are brakes not spark plugs they save your life all day long, they are worth throwing a little extra money at, it's your life and others that rely on it. Plus if there tearing apart the brakes already and you have the money, then it's a very good idea to have them replace the calipers because you will need to one day and you will know you need to, when you press on the brakes and they don't work (worst scenario) or just start to leak. And as for the rotors being under limit in thickness yes that is bad... very bad. That means they are too thin to cool themselves under normal operation, And again these are brakes not spark plugs they are worth the money!
Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
Hi, I went to my car dealership today to get oil change %26amp; tire inspection and they said I need new brake pads, both front and rear (5mm left? how bad is that? they said it's fine now but I should get it at my next maintenence service)
I said why, I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
Is it true that pads,rotors,calipers ';must'; be done simultaneously? Is it the fact that I only did rotors/calipers that caused my brake pads worn out so quick?
They're saying I'll need about $800 to get all three done (along with some other little stuff to make my brakes fine) Is this reasonable?
I understand dealership might rob you like crazy sometimes and it's not the best place to go but I kind of like this particular location dealership they've been pretty honest according to my past experience. Even today, I told them to let me know if I need to get new tires and they said it's perfectly fine even though I have over 52000 mile on it and never replaced any one before (is this normal? seems like they last forever! I thought you replace it every two year or so...)
I also asked to get tire rotation but they said it's not needed at this point. even though I got it at pretty much all my oil change services (every 5000 mile)?
I drive Scion tc 2006, any feedback would be greatly appreciated~
Thanks all for reading this super long question ;)Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
%26gt; I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
You can replace the brakes FEW times before resurfacing the rotors (I do this all the time). But most of the time, if you are going to resurface the rotor, they always replace the brakes. That way the NEW rotor surface last longer.
====
All this is moot. Brakes jobs are VERY standard. There's NO reason to do them at the dealership. Go to ANY garage or brake shop. Even a rank 1st year mechanic can do brakes.
That was the FIRST thing I learned to do.
====
Also since the rotors were resurfaced before you PROBABLY don't need to do it again. The dealers are FAMOUS for OVER estimating the problem. They say that they want to COMPLETELY fix a problem (yeah - at your cost !!!! ).
Good luck.......Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
You do NOT have to do all three simultaneously, in fact its a waste of money to do so.
Calipers should never go bad and therefore never need to be replaced.
Rotors should only need to be turned if you warped them, either from overheating the brakes or going too long with worn out pads.
Brake pads go a couple years if not abused so you probably dont need them yet. In addition, you change the rear brake pads/shoes only once every other time you change the front ones.
Always bleed the brakes after all services, and thats the only ';other little stuff'; involved. It should only cost about $20.
$800 is quite ridiculous
if the rotors are not scored then just change the pads calipers only need doing if they leak oil brake pads replace at 1.0mm you may have someone who can help you change your brake pads / pads must be replaced in pairs eg. both front pads , both rear pads
$800 for a brake job is way too much.
I never go to the ';stealership'; unless I need parts that I can't get from anywhere else.
You don't need to replace pads and rotors simultaneously. I've never heard of anyone resurfacing calipers.
The pads will ware down faster than the rotors. As long as the rotors aren't cracked, warped, or damaged, there really isn't any reason to replace them. (The price difference between resurfacing and buying new rotors are very minimal, so just buy new rotors)
Once you hear a squeaking noise when you apply the brakes, that's when you'll know you need to get new brake pads. (There's a metal bar that comes in contact with the rotor which causes the noise)
Oil changes should be done every 3 months or 3000 - 5000 miles, or which ever comes first.
Pads need to be replaced. Rotors can be replaced or machined(if they're not too thin). The mechanic can measure it. The calipers just need to be greased, but they really shouldn't charge you much for that if they're changing the pads already. Afterward, they should bleed or flush you brake fluids depending how old it is. The rotors should be good for 2 or 3 sets of pads before replacing. I don't generally have my rotors machine between pad changes, but you can check with your fingers to see if there are any deep grooves.
It's not a difficult job so I recommend you look into aftermarket parts and another shop to do the job. You probably just need the front brakes changed and bleed all 4 brakes. I've used Napa rotors and they work fine for about 1/4 the cost of factory rotors.
if the rotors were replaced so should have the pads been replaced you never replace rotors with out replacing pads and yes calipers go bad all the time especially dodges ive replaced more stuck dodge calipers than any other brand and if the plenomic piston sticks yes it is very possible that it could/would ruin both rotor and pads but on the other hand its very common to replace just pads so if its 2006 model wouldn't caliper be a warranty issue no i wouldnt pay overpriced dealership pricesbut on the other hand i would expect brakes to last more than a year
hope this helps
$800..... NO they are LYING to you... you never have to change the calipers.... new pads wont be much and the rotors shouldne be much either if you are replacing them, if you replace all 4 rotors and new pads it shouldnt be over $300....
By the book every time you replace brake pads you should resurface or change your brake rotors. If the caliper's aren't bad (as in not seized, leaking and working fine) then they don't need to be replaced but the can and DO go bad. Can you change pads but not resurface your rotors? Yes but they will not perform as well or as long as they would if you did resurface or replace. Remember these are brakes not spark plugs they save your life all day long, they are worth throwing a little extra money at, it's your life and others that rely on it. Plus if there tearing apart the brakes already and you have the money, then it's a very good idea to have them replace the calipers because you will need to one day and you will know you need to, when you press on the brakes and they don't work (worst scenario) or just start to leak. And as for the rotors being under limit in thickness yes that is bad... very bad. That means they are too thin to cool themselves under normal operation, And again these are brakes not spark plugs they are worth the money!
I said why, I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
Is it true that pads,rotors,calipers ';must'; be done simultaneously? Is it the fact that I only did rotors/calipers that caused my brake pads worn out so quick?
They're saying I'll need about $800 to get all three done (along with some other little stuff to make my brakes fine) Is this reasonable?
I understand dealership might rob you like crazy sometimes and it's not the best place to go but I kind of like this particular location dealership they've been pretty honest according to my past experience. Even today, I told them to let me know if I need to get new tires and they said it's perfectly fine even though I have over 52000 mile on it and never replaced any one before (is this normal? seems like they last forever! I thought you replace it every two year or so...)
I also asked to get tire rotation but they said it's not needed at this point. even though I got it at pretty much all my oil change services (every 5000 mile)?
I drive Scion tc 2006, any feedback would be greatly appreciated~
Thanks all for reading this super long question ;)Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
%26gt; I just replaced (or re-surfaced? don't remember...) my brake rotors and calipers about a year ago (at Firestone) and they said the mechanics who did it last year should've really done rotors, calipers and brake pads all together at the same time, not separate. And that it's kind of a wast of money when you do it (separately) like that.
You can replace the brakes FEW times before resurfacing the rotors (I do this all the time). But most of the time, if you are going to resurface the rotor, they always replace the brakes. That way the NEW rotor surface last longer.
====
All this is moot. Brakes jobs are VERY standard. There's NO reason to do them at the dealership. Go to ANY garage or brake shop. Even a rank 1st year mechanic can do brakes.
That was the FIRST thing I learned to do.
====
Also since the rotors were resurfaced before you PROBABLY don't need to do it again. The dealers are FAMOUS for OVER estimating the problem. They say that they want to COMPLETELY fix a problem (yeah - at your cost !!!! ).
Good luck.......Brake pads+rotors+calipers?
You do NOT have to do all three simultaneously, in fact its a waste of money to do so.
Calipers should never go bad and therefore never need to be replaced.
Rotors should only need to be turned if you warped them, either from overheating the brakes or going too long with worn out pads.
Brake pads go a couple years if not abused so you probably dont need them yet. In addition, you change the rear brake pads/shoes only once every other time you change the front ones.
Always bleed the brakes after all services, and thats the only ';other little stuff'; involved. It should only cost about $20.
$800 is quite ridiculous
if the rotors are not scored then just change the pads calipers only need doing if they leak oil brake pads replace at 1.0mm you may have someone who can help you change your brake pads / pads must be replaced in pairs eg. both front pads , both rear pads
$800 for a brake job is way too much.
I never go to the ';stealership'; unless I need parts that I can't get from anywhere else.
You don't need to replace pads and rotors simultaneously. I've never heard of anyone resurfacing calipers.
The pads will ware down faster than the rotors. As long as the rotors aren't cracked, warped, or damaged, there really isn't any reason to replace them. (The price difference between resurfacing and buying new rotors are very minimal, so just buy new rotors)
Once you hear a squeaking noise when you apply the brakes, that's when you'll know you need to get new brake pads. (There's a metal bar that comes in contact with the rotor which causes the noise)
Oil changes should be done every 3 months or 3000 - 5000 miles, or which ever comes first.
Pads need to be replaced. Rotors can be replaced or machined(if they're not too thin). The mechanic can measure it. The calipers just need to be greased, but they really shouldn't charge you much for that if they're changing the pads already. Afterward, they should bleed or flush you brake fluids depending how old it is. The rotors should be good for 2 or 3 sets of pads before replacing. I don't generally have my rotors machine between pad changes, but you can check with your fingers to see if there are any deep grooves.
It's not a difficult job so I recommend you look into aftermarket parts and another shop to do the job. You probably just need the front brakes changed and bleed all 4 brakes. I've used Napa rotors and they work fine for about 1/4 the cost of factory rotors.
if the rotors were replaced so should have the pads been replaced you never replace rotors with out replacing pads and yes calipers go bad all the time especially dodges ive replaced more stuck dodge calipers than any other brand and if the plenomic piston sticks yes it is very possible that it could/would ruin both rotor and pads but on the other hand its very common to replace just pads so if its 2006 model wouldn't caliper be a warranty issue no i wouldnt pay overpriced dealership pricesbut on the other hand i would expect brakes to last more than a year
hope this helps
$800..... NO they are LYING to you... you never have to change the calipers.... new pads wont be much and the rotors shouldne be much either if you are replacing them, if you replace all 4 rotors and new pads it shouldnt be over $300....
By the book every time you replace brake pads you should resurface or change your brake rotors. If the caliper's aren't bad (as in not seized, leaking and working fine) then they don't need to be replaced but the can and DO go bad. Can you change pads but not resurface your rotors? Yes but they will not perform as well or as long as they would if you did resurface or replace. Remember these are brakes not spark plugs they save your life all day long, they are worth throwing a little extra money at, it's your life and others that rely on it. Plus if there tearing apart the brakes already and you have the money, then it's a very good idea to have them replace the calipers because you will need to one day and you will know you need to, when you press on the brakes and they don't work (worst scenario) or just start to leak. And as for the rotors being under limit in thickness yes that is bad... very bad. That means they are too thin to cool themselves under normal operation, And again these are brakes not spark plugs they are worth the money!
Is it easy to change car tyre personally how many tyre levers needed how do you reseal tubeless tyres?
Two motorcycle irons should do it. Make sure the opposite side is against the low part of the rim. You can unseat the bead by using a car jack.
To reseat the bead: Unscrew and remove the valve core from the stem, so that air will flow in faster. You have to get each side of the tire against the rim enough to hold air in. once it's pressurized the tire will pop into place- check it over, maybe a bit extra pressure. soap and water to leak test.
It can be tricky getting it to hold air well enough to start pressurizing. If you're putting the same tire back on, it will probably be easy- it'll be ';spread'; Tire machines blast air at the bottom, while pumping air into the valve stem. If you soap and water the tire, you may be able to ';start'; the bead onto each side. A ratcheting tie down around the tire may help spread it. Even with a tire machine it can be a hassle. An air compressor with a short, large diameter hose is about necessary
I've heard, but haven't tried : spray a bit of starting fluid inside the tire. throw a lit match at it. Boom. Wear safety glasses. Most of the starter fluid should burn up. You don't want any left inside- compressed air and flammable liquids are an explosive combination. Blow air in and let it flow out a few times?
If you're patching it : radial tire patches are different.Is it easy to change car tyre personally how many tyre levers needed how do you reseal tubeless tyres?
its pretty simple to change one. you reseal one by a tool that shoots air into the tire fast. you might be about to take the voul stem out and shoot air in. idkIs it easy to change car tyre personally how many tyre levers needed how do you reseal tubeless tyres?
lol!
you need 1 jack to lift the car and 1 crank to take the tyre off!
jacks can fail resulting in the car collapsing so be careful always do it on flat ground with the handbrake applied and the remaining tyres chocked with bricks
as for putting the tyres back on, its recommended that you use a torque rench and tighten the bolts to a specified torqe as too slack or too tight can be dangerous,
if you dont have a torque rench, i usually go with hand tight then a tiny kick tighter, but i suppose it depends on how buff you are lol
Jeff M has described it very well. It's certainly possible but it's not easy, even if you've done it before.
I'd have to be stuck in the middle of the Sahara before I'd bother; take it to a tyre fitter with all the kit!
Once you have done it, if you can, you then need to balance it. Nah, not worth the agro to save 拢10 or so.
Yes, it's fairly easy. If you know what you are doing it can be done with just your fingers, however 3 levers make it easier.
Lay the wheel flat, let the air out and stand on the sidewall of the tyre and bounce up and down till the edge of the tyre drops off the rim and can be pushed into the central groove of the wheel. Push one side of the tyre into the groove and lift the opposite side over the rim. Work round the wheel till the whole tyre bead is free. Turn over and push the other bead off the rim, then remove the tyre as before. Reverse the procedure to re-fit. Use a bit of soapy water as lubricant to make it easier to move. Probably a good idea to change the valve stem while the tyre is off.
Once the tyre is fitted make sure it is centralised and touching the rim all round then inflate it to above the required pressure and check it has fitted evenly all round; you may need a garage air line here as a foot pump probably isn't fast enough.
If you have to apply more than gentle hand force to the tyre you haven't got it positioned right, don't force it as you can damage the sealing area.
Don't forget to get it re-balanced and check the pressure and wheel nuts soon after
To reseat the bead: Unscrew and remove the valve core from the stem, so that air will flow in faster. You have to get each side of the tire against the rim enough to hold air in. once it's pressurized the tire will pop into place- check it over, maybe a bit extra pressure. soap and water to leak test.
It can be tricky getting it to hold air well enough to start pressurizing. If you're putting the same tire back on, it will probably be easy- it'll be ';spread'; Tire machines blast air at the bottom, while pumping air into the valve stem. If you soap and water the tire, you may be able to ';start'; the bead onto each side. A ratcheting tie down around the tire may help spread it. Even with a tire machine it can be a hassle. An air compressor with a short, large diameter hose is about necessary
I've heard, but haven't tried : spray a bit of starting fluid inside the tire. throw a lit match at it. Boom. Wear safety glasses. Most of the starter fluid should burn up. You don't want any left inside- compressed air and flammable liquids are an explosive combination. Blow air in and let it flow out a few times?
If you're patching it : radial tire patches are different.Is it easy to change car tyre personally how many tyre levers needed how do you reseal tubeless tyres?
its pretty simple to change one. you reseal one by a tool that shoots air into the tire fast. you might be about to take the voul stem out and shoot air in. idkIs it easy to change car tyre personally how many tyre levers needed how do you reseal tubeless tyres?
lol!
you need 1 jack to lift the car and 1 crank to take the tyre off!
jacks can fail resulting in the car collapsing so be careful always do it on flat ground with the handbrake applied and the remaining tyres chocked with bricks
as for putting the tyres back on, its recommended that you use a torque rench and tighten the bolts to a specified torqe as too slack or too tight can be dangerous,
if you dont have a torque rench, i usually go with hand tight then a tiny kick tighter, but i suppose it depends on how buff you are lol
Jeff M has described it very well. It's certainly possible but it's not easy, even if you've done it before.
I'd have to be stuck in the middle of the Sahara before I'd bother; take it to a tyre fitter with all the kit!
Once you have done it, if you can, you then need to balance it. Nah, not worth the agro to save 拢10 or so.
Yes, it's fairly easy. If you know what you are doing it can be done with just your fingers, however 3 levers make it easier.
Lay the wheel flat, let the air out and stand on the sidewall of the tyre and bounce up and down till the edge of the tyre drops off the rim and can be pushed into the central groove of the wheel. Push one side of the tyre into the groove and lift the opposite side over the rim. Work round the wheel till the whole tyre bead is free. Turn over and push the other bead off the rim, then remove the tyre as before. Reverse the procedure to re-fit. Use a bit of soapy water as lubricant to make it easier to move. Probably a good idea to change the valve stem while the tyre is off.
Once the tyre is fitted make sure it is centralised and touching the rim all round then inflate it to above the required pressure and check it has fitted evenly all round; you may need a garage air line here as a foot pump probably isn't fast enough.
If you have to apply more than gentle hand force to the tyre you haven't got it positioned right, don't force it as you can damage the sealing area.
Don't forget to get it re-balanced and check the pressure and wheel nuts soon after
Help with my survey on maintaining cars for my school project?
1. Do you know how to maintain your own car? Yes/No
2. Do you do your own maintenance? Yes/No
3. Do you do your own tune up? Yes/No
4. Do you know how to check tire pressure? Yes/No
5. Do you have the tools to do your own maintenance? Yes/No
6. Do you take your car to shops for maintenance? Yes/No
7. Can you change your air filter? Yes/No
8. Can you change the engine oil? Yes/No
9. Can you change belts? Yes/No
10. Can you change brakes? Yes/No
11. Do you know where to dispose used oil and filter? Yes/No
12. Do you know how to change coolant? Yes/No
13. Do you know how to jump start your car? Yes/No
14. Do you know how to change tires? Yes/No
15. Do you know how to use a jack? Yes/No
will u please answer these questions
just type yes or no for each one
thank youHelp with my survey on maintaining cars for my school project?
Yes to all.
Note on #6 I take the car to the shop, because a lot of jobs are easier to do on the lift, but I do the work myself.Help with my survey on maintaining cars for my school project?
y
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y
y
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y
y
y
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y
yes
yes
no
yes
yes
yes
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yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Yes
5. Yes
6. Yes
7. Yes
8. Yes
9. Yes
10. Yes
11. Yes
12. Yes
13. Yes
14. Yes
15. Yes
Yes to all answers except #6. I don't take my vehicles to any shop for maintenance, just major repairs.
Yes to all except number 6. I'm a mechanic so I do all the work (minor and major) to my car myself.
2. Do you do your own maintenance? Yes/No
3. Do you do your own tune up? Yes/No
4. Do you know how to check tire pressure? Yes/No
5. Do you have the tools to do your own maintenance? Yes/No
6. Do you take your car to shops for maintenance? Yes/No
7. Can you change your air filter? Yes/No
8. Can you change the engine oil? Yes/No
9. Can you change belts? Yes/No
10. Can you change brakes? Yes/No
11. Do you know where to dispose used oil and filter? Yes/No
12. Do you know how to change coolant? Yes/No
13. Do you know how to jump start your car? Yes/No
14. Do you know how to change tires? Yes/No
15. Do you know how to use a jack? Yes/No
will u please answer these questions
just type yes or no for each one
thank youHelp with my survey on maintaining cars for my school project?
Yes to all.
Note on #6 I take the car to the shop, because a lot of jobs are easier to do on the lift, but I do the work myself.Help with my survey on maintaining cars for my school project?
y
y
y
y
y
n
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
yes
yes
no
yes
yes
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yes
yes
1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Yes
5. Yes
6. Yes
7. Yes
8. Yes
9. Yes
10. Yes
11. Yes
12. Yes
13. Yes
14. Yes
15. Yes
Yes to all answers except #6. I don't take my vehicles to any shop for maintenance, just major repairs.
Yes to all except number 6. I'm a mechanic so I do all the work (minor and major) to my car myself.
Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
Ok, so for starters this is NOT your typical ';Oh, its a brake problem'; or ';Oh, you need a wheel balance'; vibration - kinda tired of seeing those posts with only those solutions.
My car has several mechanics stumped: Honda dealer, Sears, and another auto shop all can't figure it out.
So, of course we did the obvious least expensive fixes first: balance, alignment, changed tires (twice), and checked rims - they are not bent. Then used a device called ';chassis ears'; which were kind of fun to drive the car with while listening to different parts of the car - but no sound changes when hooked up near the brakes and motor mounts and another part - I forget what it was called ';lower....something';
Decided to change anyway all the brake pads and rotors and then front axles.
Still, vibration.
Tired and worn out from this. Looked up recalls on 05 Honda Accords and there's several but I don't see how any of them would cause the vibration. There's also no indication of body work from the previous owner (bought from dealer who received the car after a lease was up).
I've heard that automatic transmissions sometimes have these vibrations and the whole thing would need to be changed out if that is the case or it could be the ';harmonic stabilizer'; that's attached to the camshaft. But that hasn't been decided to explore those 2 yet to see if they are the problem. I guess it's a little more expensive to do that.
Oh, and another thing, the vibration comes on stronger with colder outside temperatures (but still is present when it's warm out but less pronounced).
And also, lubing up the metal holders for the brakes (these metal holders clip onto the brakes which clip onto the calipers) helped out too, but only for a half day on a warm day too- so that's why I still thought the brakes might be a problem and changed them out.
Thinking of just trading in for something else, maybe BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mercury or something.
Would I tell the dealer that there's a vibration? Kind of feel I should but....?
Maybe just go back to the original dealer (Herb Chambers) and trade in for one of their cars but I didn't like my auto purchasing experience there with this Honda and don't want to go back to any of them.
Any thoughts on any of this?Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
You need to start with a better description of what the vibration is that you are trying to fix.
1) does the vibration only happen when the car is in motion or do you feel it at stops as well?
2) if only when the car is in motion, at what vehicle speed does the vibration start to come in?
3) at what engine speed does the vibration start to come in?
4) what gear is the transmission in?
5) does the vibration change with vehicle speed, engine speed, or transmission gearing?
6) is the vibration felt on turns, straights, uphills, downhills, or under all conditions at the threshold speed?
7) where do you feel the vibrati0on? In the seats? In the steering wheel? in the accelerator or brake pedal?
8) does the vibration go away when coasting in neutral?
9) is the vibration felt on transmission shifts, or before, or after the transmission shifts? does the intensity change?
10) what is the engine temperature when the vibration occurs? cold, hot or at all temperatures?
11) has the dealer determined the order of the vibration? do they know the resonance of the vibration in Hertz? do they know the amplitude?
12) is there an audible noise with the vibration or is the vibration just felt?
these are only a few of the questions that you need to provide data on before you can expect anyone to narrow down the possibilities. the more information you give the better the chance you have of someone isolating the vibration.
hope that helps.Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
stop going to a dealer first thing most of time of trouble shooting go to a real shop place that works on cars dealership sale cars and only work on new cars where shop repair car every day sorry best bet to find a problem wil be a better shop not a dealership
It could be a front axle (drive shaft).
My car has several mechanics stumped: Honda dealer, Sears, and another auto shop all can't figure it out.
So, of course we did the obvious least expensive fixes first: balance, alignment, changed tires (twice), and checked rims - they are not bent. Then used a device called ';chassis ears'; which were kind of fun to drive the car with while listening to different parts of the car - but no sound changes when hooked up near the brakes and motor mounts and another part - I forget what it was called ';lower....something';
Decided to change anyway all the brake pads and rotors and then front axles.
Still, vibration.
Tired and worn out from this. Looked up recalls on 05 Honda Accords and there's several but I don't see how any of them would cause the vibration. There's also no indication of body work from the previous owner (bought from dealer who received the car after a lease was up).
I've heard that automatic transmissions sometimes have these vibrations and the whole thing would need to be changed out if that is the case or it could be the ';harmonic stabilizer'; that's attached to the camshaft. But that hasn't been decided to explore those 2 yet to see if they are the problem. I guess it's a little more expensive to do that.
Oh, and another thing, the vibration comes on stronger with colder outside temperatures (but still is present when it's warm out but less pronounced).
And also, lubing up the metal holders for the brakes (these metal holders clip onto the brakes which clip onto the calipers) helped out too, but only for a half day on a warm day too- so that's why I still thought the brakes might be a problem and changed them out.
Thinking of just trading in for something else, maybe BMW, Lexus, Ford, Mercury or something.
Would I tell the dealer that there's a vibration? Kind of feel I should but....?
Maybe just go back to the original dealer (Herb Chambers) and trade in for one of their cars but I didn't like my auto purchasing experience there with this Honda and don't want to go back to any of them.
Any thoughts on any of this?Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
You need to start with a better description of what the vibration is that you are trying to fix.
1) does the vibration only happen when the car is in motion or do you feel it at stops as well?
2) if only when the car is in motion, at what vehicle speed does the vibration start to come in?
3) at what engine speed does the vibration start to come in?
4) what gear is the transmission in?
5) does the vibration change with vehicle speed, engine speed, or transmission gearing?
6) is the vibration felt on turns, straights, uphills, downhills, or under all conditions at the threshold speed?
7) where do you feel the vibrati0on? In the seats? In the steering wheel? in the accelerator or brake pedal?
8) does the vibration go away when coasting in neutral?
9) is the vibration felt on transmission shifts, or before, or after the transmission shifts? does the intensity change?
10) what is the engine temperature when the vibration occurs? cold, hot or at all temperatures?
11) has the dealer determined the order of the vibration? do they know the resonance of the vibration in Hertz? do they know the amplitude?
12) is there an audible noise with the vibration or is the vibration just felt?
these are only a few of the questions that you need to provide data on before you can expect anyone to narrow down the possibilities. the more information you give the better the chance you have of someone isolating the vibration.
hope that helps.Where is my 2005 Accord EX V6 vibration coming from?
stop going to a dealer first thing most of time of trouble shooting go to a real shop place that works on cars dealership sale cars and only work on new cars where shop repair car every day sorry best bet to find a problem wil be a better shop not a dealership
It could be a front axle (drive shaft).
Do you know how to change a tire?
Who taught you? How often have you used the knowledge?Do you know how to change a tire?
Yes, I am an oldie and learned it from my father after an initial ';mess up'; moment. I tried to change a tire on a 1960 Rambler to no avail. So, I had to call my dad. Who woulda known to loosen the lug nuts first? Nowadays, with those being tightened by machinery, it is almost impossible to do.
Because of my experiences, I made sure that my own children knew the concept of tire changing. (Don't call mother.)
I've not done it since then in the 1960s as I've always coerced someone else to do it for me. HAHA
Thank goodness, today's tires are sooooo much better! The warranties are just great, too. But, having a membership in AAA is well worthwhile!Do you know how to change a tire?
Changing a tire is quite simple as long as you're not on the side of the road somewhere. My father taught me, and I've only changed one tire in my life, but it's fairly easy.
Yes. I've done it two or three times. It's really easy....just don't lose the lugnuts. :)
Yes,
my Step dad
Not yet I'm thankful for that
no i have never changed one but my husband tought me how. its not too hard
Yes
Selftaught
14 times
Yes, I know how to change a tire. I figured it out on my own when I once got a flat in the middle of nowhere. I have changed about 2-3 tires.
yes I do know how to change a tire, my dad taught me and i have only ha to use it one time and that was t go and rescue my boyfriend at the time who did not know how to. other than that only when doing repair on my car that require taking the tire off.
Yes I do. My dad taught me. I have only had to change one in my life. I can also change the oil but it's a lot easier to take it and have it changed.
Yes I do.
I taught myself. I changed my first tire when I was 16, on my first car. It was a 1977 Ford Thunderbird with a 351 Cleveland. It was a great car.
I've used this knowledge countless times over the past 10 years. I worked for Discount Tire Company, I've changed my own wheels and tires, and worked on my own cars/trucks over the years.
It's simple yet indispensable knowledge. Even if you only have to use it once it your life. It could save you allot of time and gives you at the very least a sense of self-satisfaction.
I know how to change a tire, my dad taught me. I haven't had to use this knowledge yet, but hopefully won't have to since I got AAA.uninstall internet explorer
Yes, I am an oldie and learned it from my father after an initial ';mess up'; moment. I tried to change a tire on a 1960 Rambler to no avail. So, I had to call my dad. Who woulda known to loosen the lug nuts first? Nowadays, with those being tightened by machinery, it is almost impossible to do.
Because of my experiences, I made sure that my own children knew the concept of tire changing. (Don't call mother.)
I've not done it since then in the 1960s as I've always coerced someone else to do it for me. HAHA
Thank goodness, today's tires are sooooo much better! The warranties are just great, too. But, having a membership in AAA is well worthwhile!Do you know how to change a tire?
Changing a tire is quite simple as long as you're not on the side of the road somewhere. My father taught me, and I've only changed one tire in my life, but it's fairly easy.
Yes. I've done it two or three times. It's really easy....just don't lose the lugnuts. :)
Yes,
my Step dad
Not yet I'm thankful for that
no i have never changed one but my husband tought me how. its not too hard
Yes
Selftaught
14 times
Yes, I know how to change a tire. I figured it out on my own when I once got a flat in the middle of nowhere. I have changed about 2-3 tires.
yes I do know how to change a tire, my dad taught me and i have only ha to use it one time and that was t go and rescue my boyfriend at the time who did not know how to. other than that only when doing repair on my car that require taking the tire off.
Yes I do. My dad taught me. I have only had to change one in my life. I can also change the oil but it's a lot easier to take it and have it changed.
Yes I do.
I taught myself. I changed my first tire when I was 16, on my first car. It was a 1977 Ford Thunderbird with a 351 Cleveland. It was a great car.
I've used this knowledge countless times over the past 10 years. I worked for Discount Tire Company, I've changed my own wheels and tires, and worked on my own cars/trucks over the years.
It's simple yet indispensable knowledge. Even if you only have to use it once it your life. It could save you allot of time and gives you at the very least a sense of self-satisfaction.
I know how to change a tire, my dad taught me. I haven't had to use this knowledge yet, but hopefully won't have to since I got AAA.
I Want To Change The Radio In My 2002 Chevy Monte Carlo But How Would I Set The Oil Change And Tire Press Feat
There Is A Feature That Tells You Your Oil Life And Tire Pressure And Its Controlled Throught The Radio, I Want to Change My Factory Radio To Something A Little More Flashy. But Would I Still Be Able To Control These FeaturesI Want To Change The Radio In My 2002 Chevy Monte Carlo But How Would I Set The Oil Change And Tire Press Feat
Do you have your owner's manual? The steps for resetting the TPMS and Oil Life Monitor without the radio are in the manual.
To reset the Oil Life Monitor do the following: turn the car on (do not start) and quickly press the gas pedal down three times. You should hear a chime and the Change Engine Oil light will flash and turn off.
To reset the TPMS (Tire Pressure Management System) make sure all tires are inflated properly then do this:
(From 2000 Impala Manual, process is the same for the Monte)
Turn the ignition to ON, then pull the interior lamps
control to the ON and OFF settings three times.
The system normally takes 15 to 20 minutes of driving
in each of three speed ranges to “learn” tire pressures.
The speed ranges are 15 to 40 mph (25 to 65 km/h),
40 to 65 mph (65 to 105 km/h) and above 65 mph
(105 km/h). When learning is complete, the system
will alert you after two to eight minutes if a tire is 12 psi
(83 kPa) different from the other three tires. Detection
thresholds may be higher and detection times may be
longer on rough roads, curves and at high speeds. The
system is not capable of detection at speeds greater than
70 mph (110 km/h).I Want To Change The Radio In My 2002 Chevy Monte Carlo But How Would I Set The Oil Change And Tire Press Feat
probably not, the radio is hooked to all of it. the only way would be that you would have to get get a radio from GM with the same capabilities. I would say that any radio from another source would not be able to interface with these features
Check with Crutchfield Radio at www.crutchfield.com or call 1-888-955-6000
Do you have your owner's manual? The steps for resetting the TPMS and Oil Life Monitor without the radio are in the manual.
To reset the Oil Life Monitor do the following: turn the car on (do not start) and quickly press the gas pedal down three times. You should hear a chime and the Change Engine Oil light will flash and turn off.
To reset the TPMS (Tire Pressure Management System) make sure all tires are inflated properly then do this:
(From 2000 Impala Manual, process is the same for the Monte)
Turn the ignition to ON, then pull the interior lamps
control to the ON and OFF settings three times.
The system normally takes 15 to 20 minutes of driving
in each of three speed ranges to “learn” tire pressures.
The speed ranges are 15 to 40 mph (25 to 65 km/h),
40 to 65 mph (65 to 105 km/h) and above 65 mph
(105 km/h). When learning is complete, the system
will alert you after two to eight minutes if a tire is 12 psi
(83 kPa) different from the other three tires. Detection
thresholds may be higher and detection times may be
longer on rough roads, curves and at high speeds. The
system is not capable of detection at speeds greater than
70 mph (110 km/h).I Want To Change The Radio In My 2002 Chevy Monte Carlo But How Would I Set The Oil Change And Tire Press Feat
probably not, the radio is hooked to all of it. the only way would be that you would have to get get a radio from GM with the same capabilities. I would say that any radio from another source would not be able to interface with these features
Check with Crutchfield Radio at www.crutchfield.com or call 1-888-955-6000
Ladies: How many of you know how to change a tire?
...or change the oil in your car?
I have no idea...I feel so helpless! LOL.
My goal is to learn how to do both by the end of the year. I put a lot of miles on my car, so it seems like I should have an idea of how to take care of the thing, you know? Ladies: How many of you know how to change a tire?
I used to know how back in the 80's but it's been so long I've forgotten. Besides, isn't that what God created men for? hehe, jkLadies: How many of you know how to change a tire?
I do.
i can barely start a car.
I do! my Daddy made me learn how to do those things. I'm 38 years old and boy has it came in handy!
Not me. I was taught in high school, but I have no idea how to do it still!!~~
i know the gist of it but i wouldnt be able to, i have no strenght to get the bolts out of the tire
My hubby did show me how to change a tire once and I think in a pinch I could do it. I can not change the oil in my car and I have no desire to learn. I do not mind paying someone $30 every three months to do that or have my hubby do it. ?
I know how to do it, and if it ever came down to it, I would be able to do.
I would rather not though, lol.
It's like $20 to get an oil change.
And changing tires is easy too.
i dont know and i'm not going to mess with that.. maybe later on in the future when i really have to mess with it.. i dont want anything to blow up on me etc.. good luck, i know how to put the water in the car...let someone show you how to do it..
sweety, when you are pretty, u don't have to know how to do those things...someone will ALWAYS be there to help you...
EDIT: Susan D is right...u should learn.
nope, i have AAA to change my tire and a good job to pay someone to change my oil
Sure do.....that and more. It's in your best interest to learn how. You may need to do it someday and no one will be around to help you.
I had to learn years ago! Now I pay to have it done.
lol
My boyfriend recently taught me how to change the oil, the oil filter, the air filter, clean the battery cables and change the tires. The only thing he didn't show me was the spark plugs, but I think I can figure that part out.
i can rotate the tires, change the oil, wire a stereo system, change the fan belt, put on brakes and get the kids off to school. =)
I do........ i took a short course on Basic mechanics for women, it was the best thing i did......I dont have to rely on guys to help me.......x
Never have but I have an idea of how to do it.
your a girl.
*raises hand*
I even bought an Owner's Manual and started fixing my own.
The thing about changing the oil is where to dispose of it. The legal places only come around about once a year, and then you have to make an appointment.
I don't for sure, but many times I have called The Automobile Club of America (AAA) to change my tire within 30 minutes. I Never leave home without that card!
I have no idea either on how to do both.
I wish I had learned when I was younger.
Good for you, learn as much as you can about your car.
If you have to take it for repairs, you know what they are talking about.
I have an idea of how to change a tire, By watching the person I called to change My tire when i have gotten a flat !! No idea how to change oil but good idea you have,
I have no idea...I feel so helpless! LOL.
My goal is to learn how to do both by the end of the year. I put a lot of miles on my car, so it seems like I should have an idea of how to take care of the thing, you know? Ladies: How many of you know how to change a tire?
I used to know how back in the 80's but it's been so long I've forgotten. Besides, isn't that what God created men for? hehe, jkLadies: How many of you know how to change a tire?
I do.
i can barely start a car.
I do! my Daddy made me learn how to do those things. I'm 38 years old and boy has it came in handy!
Not me. I was taught in high school, but I have no idea how to do it still!!~~
i know the gist of it but i wouldnt be able to, i have no strenght to get the bolts out of the tire
My hubby did show me how to change a tire once and I think in a pinch I could do it. I can not change the oil in my car and I have no desire to learn. I do not mind paying someone $30 every three months to do that or have my hubby do it. ?
I know how to do it, and if it ever came down to it, I would be able to do.
I would rather not though, lol.
It's like $20 to get an oil change.
And changing tires is easy too.
i dont know and i'm not going to mess with that.. maybe later on in the future when i really have to mess with it.. i dont want anything to blow up on me etc.. good luck, i know how to put the water in the car...let someone show you how to do it..
sweety, when you are pretty, u don't have to know how to do those things...someone will ALWAYS be there to help you...
EDIT: Susan D is right...u should learn.
nope, i have AAA to change my tire and a good job to pay someone to change my oil
Sure do.....that and more. It's in your best interest to learn how. You may need to do it someday and no one will be around to help you.
I had to learn years ago! Now I pay to have it done.
lol
My boyfriend recently taught me how to change the oil, the oil filter, the air filter, clean the battery cables and change the tires. The only thing he didn't show me was the spark plugs, but I think I can figure that part out.
i can rotate the tires, change the oil, wire a stereo system, change the fan belt, put on brakes and get the kids off to school. =)
I do........ i took a short course on Basic mechanics for women, it was the best thing i did......I dont have to rely on guys to help me.......x
Never have but I have an idea of how to do it.
your a girl.
*raises hand*
I even bought an Owner's Manual and started fixing my own.
The thing about changing the oil is where to dispose of it. The legal places only come around about once a year, and then you have to make an appointment.
I don't for sure, but many times I have called The Automobile Club of America (AAA) to change my tire within 30 minutes. I Never leave home without that card!
I have no idea either on how to do both.
I wish I had learned when I was younger.
Good for you, learn as much as you can about your car.
If you have to take it for repairs, you know what they are talking about.
I have an idea of how to change a tire, By watching the person I called to change My tire when i have gotten a flat !! No idea how to change oil but good idea you have,
1/10 scale electric rc car???
Ok i have two questions
1) To make touring 1/10 scale rc car into a drift car i just need to change tires right?
2) How long do batteries last in thouse rc cars?1/10 scale electric rc car???
no you need more than just a new set of tires .. but it does help
hpi sells the most well known drifting kit _ D BOX- its a component that when you turn one way it automatically re- balances the other side ( counter steering ) and sends it into a drifting state which the car drifts .. its pretty expense but for the cost its great .. all the pros use it
check it out at http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/80588.html
what kind of batteries you use.. the higher the amp the longer and more responsive the controls will be - like a LI Po battery (best one on the market is great.. but it needs a special charger and speed control to handel the power but normal batteries only last like 15 minuits
hope this helps you .. and a sweet way to drift with out it is go to a skating rink and let your car loose :)
1) To make touring 1/10 scale rc car into a drift car i just need to change tires right?
2) How long do batteries last in thouse rc cars?1/10 scale electric rc car???
no you need more than just a new set of tires .. but it does help
hpi sells the most well known drifting kit _ D BOX- its a component that when you turn one way it automatically re- balances the other side ( counter steering ) and sends it into a drifting state which the car drifts .. its pretty expense but for the cost its great .. all the pros use it
check it out at http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/80588.html
what kind of batteries you use.. the higher the amp the longer and more responsive the controls will be - like a LI Po battery (best one on the market is great.. but it needs a special charger and speed control to handel the power but normal batteries only last like 15 minuits
hope this helps you .. and a sweet way to drift with out it is go to a skating rink and let your car loose :)
Men: does it bother you to assist damsels in distress?
I'm not a feminist. I think it's wonderful that men are usually stronger and seem to know things like how to use battery cables to jumpstart a car. I just got home and my daughter and her friend were in the driveway talking to a guy friend on the phone, trying to check her battery. He told them to take the battery out but I thought it would be better to take the car to AutoZone. Her friend had jumper cables but none of us knew how to attach them. I noticed we all turned our heads toward the construction guys at the neighbor's house. And yes, one of them was happy to oblige.
It just made me wonder if you guys resent be called upon to change tires, squash spiders, and open jars or if you consider it reasonable.Men: does it bother you to assist damsels in distress?
No gentlemen worth his weight would ever feel put out or in any way resentful of helping a lady who asks graciously or looks lost in some way and needs assistance.
Feminism to me really has nothing to do with it. We all have strengths and gifts..... and kind, sincere people should help each other where and when they can.
I always find a gracious kind smile for assistance given well worth the effort.
I've changed my share of flat tires in my day.Men: does it bother you to assist damsels in distress?
Thank you! :)
I don't mind doing it
I am the total gentleman! I love helping damsels in distress!
I'm always a lady if it means I have to work less or I get more things, free. I don't want to fight in a war or construct a building. I love to make cupcakes, though!
Now someone lay down a jacket so that my dainty, bound feet don't get wet crossing this puddle. And there will be no more of that ';language'; in my presence!
I'm not a man... obviously, but I thought I could chime in my saying that my honey loves helping me with the manly things. (He doesn't like it when I mow the lawn or anything, he's a firefighter and so once when I had a flat tire he brought the fire truck and crew from work to have them change my tire... even though I could've handled the situation.) ...(they have a radio and could have left if they had a call... :) )
I think these kinds of guys are the ones that like opening doors for girls.
Sometimes we mess around and I'll be like oooh nooo a new jar of jeeeeeellly, oh please oh please let there be a man around to, and he'll grin all excited like and say, ';I'll DO IT!';
I love him. :D
I'm from another era I guess (..yeah, I'm an old geek..). Helping out ladies was *expected* of you. It's almost instinctive in me, but nowadays I often preface whatever assistance I'm offering by smiling and saying, ';Pardon my chauvinism.';
Just the other day I was heading downtown on a crowded light-rail train and stood up to offer my seat to a lady. She and everyone around just stared at me like I'd gone 'round the bend.
Any damsel needing help, doesn't matter if she has dis tress or doe's braids or even short hair. Any coiffure is acceptable.
But, as a guy, I have to tell you cute ones get quicker and better and more attention.
-
I don't mind it at all. I guess I am old-fashioned that way. I don't expect a woman to know those knids of things. But it can be really sexy if she does.
-
BUT - there's also all that lawsuit and harassment crap one needs to worry about these days.
It just made me wonder if you guys resent be called upon to change tires, squash spiders, and open jars or if you consider it reasonable.Men: does it bother you to assist damsels in distress?
No gentlemen worth his weight would ever feel put out or in any way resentful of helping a lady who asks graciously or looks lost in some way and needs assistance.
Feminism to me really has nothing to do with it. We all have strengths and gifts..... and kind, sincere people should help each other where and when they can.
I always find a gracious kind smile for assistance given well worth the effort.
I've changed my share of flat tires in my day.Men: does it bother you to assist damsels in distress?
Thank you! :)
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I don't mind doing it
I am the total gentleman! I love helping damsels in distress!
I'm always a lady if it means I have to work less or I get more things, free. I don't want to fight in a war or construct a building. I love to make cupcakes, though!
Now someone lay down a jacket so that my dainty, bound feet don't get wet crossing this puddle. And there will be no more of that ';language'; in my presence!
I'm not a man... obviously, but I thought I could chime in my saying that my honey loves helping me with the manly things. (He doesn't like it when I mow the lawn or anything, he's a firefighter and so once when I had a flat tire he brought the fire truck and crew from work to have them change my tire... even though I could've handled the situation.) ...(they have a radio and could have left if they had a call... :) )
I think these kinds of guys are the ones that like opening doors for girls.
Sometimes we mess around and I'll be like oooh nooo a new jar of jeeeeeellly, oh please oh please let there be a man around to, and he'll grin all excited like and say, ';I'll DO IT!';
I love him. :D
I'm from another era I guess (..yeah, I'm an old geek..). Helping out ladies was *expected* of you. It's almost instinctive in me, but nowadays I often preface whatever assistance I'm offering by smiling and saying, ';Pardon my chauvinism.';
Just the other day I was heading downtown on a crowded light-rail train and stood up to offer my seat to a lady. She and everyone around just stared at me like I'd gone 'round the bend.
Any damsel needing help, doesn't matter if she has dis tress or doe's braids or even short hair. Any coiffure is acceptable.
But, as a guy, I have to tell you cute ones get quicker and better and more attention.
-
I don't mind it at all. I guess I am old-fashioned that way. I don't expect a woman to know those knids of things. But it can be really sexy if she does.
-
BUT - there's also all that lawsuit and harassment crap one needs to worry about these days.
Poll: Do you know how to change a tire?
Extra question: Like me, do you often swear more changing a tire than the person that showed you how?
Extra question #2: Why don't tires ever go flat when you aren't already running late?Poll: Do you know how to change a tire?
Yes.
Tires, like all auto parts, enjoy failing when we most need them.
Like children, it's their way of getting our attention.Poll: Do you know how to change a tire?
no
lol i dont think i know how but i may be able to manage. i would probably curse cuz i dont know wat im doing.
ive never had that problem though..sorry
I don't know how
Extra #2: Because they hate you and always want you to run late.
Yes knock on my brothers door hehe thats the way to do it :)
Yeah,but I never got around to doing it.
deflate the tire, remove it from the rim, change the inner tube (if there is one), replace the tire with a new one, inflate it.hair cut styles kenra products
Extra question #2: Why don't tires ever go flat when you aren't already running late?Poll: Do you know how to change a tire?
Yes.
Tires, like all auto parts, enjoy failing when we most need them.
Like children, it's their way of getting our attention.Poll: Do you know how to change a tire?
no
lol i dont think i know how but i may be able to manage. i would probably curse cuz i dont know wat im doing.
ive never had that problem though..sorry
I don't know how
Extra #2: Because they hate you and always want you to run late.
Yes knock on my brothers door hehe thats the way to do it :)
Yeah,but I never got around to doing it.
deflate the tire, remove it from the rim, change the inner tube (if there is one), replace the tire with a new one, inflate it.
How does the cars computer react to changing tire size?
I can only tell you that when I had a flat tire and had that little donut tire on, it showed a message that said to check my tire pressure until I got the new tire on.How does the cars computer react to changing tire size?
It could care less.How does the cars computer react to changing tire size?
i believe the computer will change the odometer and even speed will be off changing the size of tires and rims i believe.
hope this helps
The computer receives the speed signal from the transmission output shaft. Therefore it is calibrated to the circumference of the tire. If you put on a tire with a larger circumference you will be traveling faster than the speedo registers. If you put on a tire with a smaller circumference you will be going slower than the speedometer registers,
It doesn't. If buying bigger rims, the driver has to adjust tire size accordingly to ensure the speedo is as close as possible.
For every inch you increase rim size, increase tire tread width by 10 mm, and then reduce aspect ratio by 10%.
It could care less.How does the cars computer react to changing tire size?
i believe the computer will change the odometer and even speed will be off changing the size of tires and rims i believe.
hope this helps
The computer receives the speed signal from the transmission output shaft. Therefore it is calibrated to the circumference of the tire. If you put on a tire with a larger circumference you will be traveling faster than the speedo registers. If you put on a tire with a smaller circumference you will be going slower than the speedometer registers,
It doesn't. If buying bigger rims, the driver has to adjust tire size accordingly to ensure the speedo is as close as possible.
For every inch you increase rim size, increase tire tread width by 10 mm, and then reduce aspect ratio by 10%.
How much does it cost to get your car serviced?
check brakes, rotate tires, change oil, etc. and where would be the best place to get it doneHow much does it cost to get your car serviced?
well, honestly, it depends where you go, and how much service work it needs, a basic oil change should cost around 25-30 bucks.. tire rotation is usually about thirty also.. checking the brakes most garages will do for free with the oil change, and tire rotation.. when the wheels are off to be rotated all they do is take a look at the brakes.. as for the best place to get it done,, i recommend a dealership, they are familiar with your vehichle, and are usually respectable. also if you should have a problem, you can go back to the car manufacturer to get it resolved.. i do not recommend the ';quick lube'; places, as they usually employ anyone off the street to do the job, and have been known to mess things up... its not worth the risk of engine dammage to save five or ten dollars in my oppinion..
well, honestly, it depends where you go, and how much service work it needs, a basic oil change should cost around 25-30 bucks.. tire rotation is usually about thirty also.. checking the brakes most garages will do for free with the oil change, and tire rotation.. when the wheels are off to be rotated all they do is take a look at the brakes.. as for the best place to get it done,, i recommend a dealership, they are familiar with your vehichle, and are usually respectable. also if you should have a problem, you can go back to the car manufacturer to get it resolved.. i do not recommend the ';quick lube'; places, as they usually employ anyone off the street to do the job, and have been known to mess things up... its not worth the risk of engine dammage to save five or ten dollars in my oppinion..
WV tie rod worn out?
I took my car to a shop, had them change 2 tires, now my car is super loud, my friend told me it might be the bearings or the fact that they didnt balance it after they changed my tire. The tire shop, says i need a new tie rod, which i will happily change but why all of a sudden, did my tires start to get so loud after the fact i changed my tires there? i'm no genuis but i know how to change tires, and it shouldnt have been a problem at all. help, are they trying to scam.WV tie rod worn out?
Easy enough to check out. Jack up the front of the car, have someone hold the tire on one side while you try and turn the wheels back and forth by moving the other one. If there's any play you need a tie rod end, if not you don't. Excess play can also come from a worn steering or idler arm too. VW front ends are pretty simple won't take but a couple minutes and a good flashlight to spot any weak links.
Sometimes a different tread pattern will make more noise than another. Also if the noise increases when turning one way or another you could have a bad wheel bearing.WV tie rod worn out?
You do not state if the tires are new. If they are not it is possible that they are cupped from the previous vehicle. Also if you are using a snow tire with a more aggressive tread pattern then the noise will increase quite a bit. Tire balance usually manifests itself as a vibration rather than a noise. The tie rod story does not wash for tire noise,that usually shows up as a ';wandering'; condition while trying to maintain straight ahead driving. I would be looking in the area of tread pattern as being the cause.
a tie rod worn out? i don't think so! it would be the ball joints that are at the end that could cause this....unless the tie rod got bent(i doubt it) so it would be the ball joints that got worn out.....something sounds fishy and its not your mom
Your question does not make a lot of sense...putting or exchanging tires will not make noise.......no front end parts are touched when tires are changed....what gives here???
I doubt changing a tie rod will stop much noise....it sure did not break while it was in the tire store!!!!!
Go to Midas and have them check it out.......they are a very reliable, honest shop.
loud? may be the tread pattern of the tires making it loud
hold wheel at 3 %26amp; 9 o'clock, and wobble, have other person observe tie rod joints-any movement ==dead. many shops charge extra to ballance wheels, cheapos don't do it=steering wobble. Loud==knock or roar? knock= mech fault, roar= tyre noise-unsuitable/cheap tyre-poor design, too wide etc. Passenger outer tie rod end wears first btw.
Easy enough to check out. Jack up the front of the car, have someone hold the tire on one side while you try and turn the wheels back and forth by moving the other one. If there's any play you need a tie rod end, if not you don't. Excess play can also come from a worn steering or idler arm too. VW front ends are pretty simple won't take but a couple minutes and a good flashlight to spot any weak links.
Sometimes a different tread pattern will make more noise than another. Also if the noise increases when turning one way or another you could have a bad wheel bearing.WV tie rod worn out?
You do not state if the tires are new. If they are not it is possible that they are cupped from the previous vehicle. Also if you are using a snow tire with a more aggressive tread pattern then the noise will increase quite a bit. Tire balance usually manifests itself as a vibration rather than a noise. The tie rod story does not wash for tire noise,that usually shows up as a ';wandering'; condition while trying to maintain straight ahead driving. I would be looking in the area of tread pattern as being the cause.
a tie rod worn out? i don't think so! it would be the ball joints that are at the end that could cause this....unless the tie rod got bent(i doubt it) so it would be the ball joints that got worn out.....something sounds fishy and its not your mom
Your question does not make a lot of sense...putting or exchanging tires will not make noise.......no front end parts are touched when tires are changed....what gives here???
I doubt changing a tie rod will stop much noise....it sure did not break while it was in the tire store!!!!!
Go to Midas and have them check it out.......they are a very reliable, honest shop.
loud? may be the tread pattern of the tires making it loud
hold wheel at 3 %26amp; 9 o'clock, and wobble, have other person observe tie rod joints-any movement ==dead. many shops charge extra to ballance wheels, cheapos don't do it=steering wobble. Loud==knock or roar? knock= mech fault, roar= tyre noise-unsuitable/cheap tyre-poor design, too wide etc. Passenger outer tie rod end wears first btw.
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